Silky Terrier, Keen and Spunky

The Silky Terrier has parentage in the Yorkshire Terrier and Australian Terrier going back to the late 1800s. Yorkshire Terriers from England arrived in Australia to help improve the Australian Terrier’s coat colour. Although most closely related to the Australian Terrier, other ancestral breeds may include the Paisley Terrier, Clydesdale Terrier, and Dandie Dinmont Terrier. American servicemen from World War II introduced the Silky Terrier to the U.S.

Physical Characteristics

According to the American Kennel Club, the Sydney Silky should have a body measuring one-fifth longer than its height at the withers. Height ranges from 9 to 10 inches (12 to 25 cm); weight ranges from 8 to 11 pounds (4 to 5 kg). This small-boned dog is larger than its ancestor, the Yorkie. This low-set terrier stands with a very level back or topline.

At birth, the Sidney Terrier has black hair. The breed wears a single coat with long hair measuring 5 or 6 inches (12 to 15 cm). The characteristic silky blue coat can range from shades of slate blue, to silver blue or pigeon blue. Tan or red markings appear on the head and legs. Long hair frames the face. Owners often sweep the hair into a stylish topknot. From head to tail base, the hair falls parted.

The long, wedge-shaped head leads into a medium-long neck and medium-wide chest. The Silky Terrier has small, triangular-shaped ears set high. Dark eyes with dark rims give a keen expression. Strong forelegs with cat-like feet run with a free and light gait.

Temperament

The friendly Silky maintains a high energy level. As a social dog, this breed should bond with humans early. An affectionate relationship can form between the Silky Terrier and his assertive master. This intelligent breed requires training, yet can rebel. Positive training should include treats, a variety of routines, and praise.

Consequences of poor training include barking at people, showing aggression to other pets, and being destructive. If the Silky Terrier takes on the role of a boss or pack leader, he will try to control humans and other animals he meets. Dogs may target children carrying food. To be on the safe side, a household should not include other pets, especially smaller ones.

Owners need to teach their children to respect their pet. Children should not pull their terrier’s coat or ears, or snatch his toys or food.

Activities

With a confident and alert manner, the Sydney Silky can be a watchdog and rodent catcher. This dog can remain active indoors. Exercise helps calm this terrier. Owners need to take their dogs outdoors for at least an hour of walks, off-leash running and fetching.

The Silky Terrier enjoys a lifespan of 12 to 15 years.

Dalmatian: The Spotted Dog with Strength and Stamina

With a long history of working with horses, the Dal also worked with chariots in ancient civilizations. In the Middle Ages, gypsies and their wagons roamed with their Dalmatians through European states. This breed developed its characteristic stamina that allows it to exercise for hours and for miles. Although documents indicate this dog’s existence in Dalmatia, Croatia, this country may not be the country of origin. In 1573 a Bohemian duchess gave Serbian poet Jurij Dalmatin two Turkish dogs that he later bred. Dalmatin’s dogs, however, may not be the ancestors of the modern breed.

In 18th-century Britain, the Dalmatian won the hearts of aristocrats. This coach dog worked horses and accompanied his master on country excursions and trips to festivities. In the 1800s, London fire brigades needed the energetic Dalmatian to help clear the streets and open the way for the horse-drawn water-wagons.

Physical Characteristics

The medium-sized Dalmatian sports a vivid, spotted coat, black or liver on a white background. The muscular frame has a square outline with the height of the withers matching the length from the point of shoulder to the outside rump. This breed has a level back, an arching neck and a curving tail. Height ranges from 56-58 cm (22-23 in) for females, and 58-61 cm (23-24 in) for males. Both females and males weigh 23-25 kg (50-55 lbs).

The Dalmatian’s head is of fair length with a deep muzzle and black or brown nose. The medium eyes may be black or amber and set well apart. The moderate ears, set high, have rounded points and hanging tips. With round, cat-like feet, the Dal runs with a long, powerful stride and can trot for miles.

Temperament

The friendly Dalmatian, is a dedicated pet, if cared for properly. Temperaments can range from shy to aggressive. This high energy dog may experience distress if left alone. Owners must train their puppies to avoid bad habits. Owners need to consider carefully if they can handle the Dal’s great strength and stamina. Owners need to exercise their Dal for two hours daily, including a walk for miles. A physically active family with a house and a fenced yard fares better with this breed. Without discipline, dogs can be hyper. The Dalmatian may take two or more years to settle.

The Many Roles of the Dalmatian

The Dalmatian has a proven track record as a coach dog, guardian and shepherd vermin dog. Sparky the Dalmatian, a fixture at some fire stations, visits schools and helps students learn about fire prevention.

In 1956, a book by Dorothy Gladys Smith entitled The One Hundred and One Dalmatians or The Great Dog Robbery, helped popularize the Dal. In 1961 Walt Disney Studios created the animated film 101 Dalmatians. A live action film followed in 1996 with over 200 Dalmatians in the cast.

Xylitol Sweetener: Toxic for Dogs

The sugar alcohol substitute sweetener found in sugar free gum, candy, toothpaste, and some foods is toxic to dogs, causing hypoglycemia and liver failure.

According to a chart prepared by Dr. Carlye Rose, DVM, Diplomate A.B.V.P., xylitol pet poisoning cases reported to the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center more than doubled between 2017 and 2018. Most pet owners now understand the dangers of chocolate but many are unaware of how deadly xylitol is to dogs. According to Dr. Paula Terijaf of 30minvetconsult.com, on a consumption basis, xylitol is 100 times more toxic than chocolate.

What is Xylitol?

Xylitol is a sugar substitute sweetener that was introduced into the United States in recent years. It is being used increasingly in sugar free gums, candies, baked items, and other foods as well as in some toothpastes and mouthwashes. More and more products are using xylitol.

How Xylitol is Harmful to Dogs

Xylitol is absorbed rapidly into the dog’s bloodstream, causing a sudden release of insulin and subsequent drop in blood sugar which may be characterized by lethargy, loss of coordination, vomiting, diarrhea, and seizures. Higher doses of xylitol can also cause severe bleeding, liver failure, coma, and death.

The ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center reports that .22 grams per pound of body weight can cause hypoglycemia and 1.1 grams per pound of body weight carries risk of liver failure and death. To get this into perspective, a 10 pound Norwich terrier died after eating sugarless gum sweetened with xylitol, and the family found only one wrapper.

Dr. Eric Dunayer, veterinarian and toxicologist for the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center warns that symptoms can appear in less than 30 minutes or up to 12 hours after ingestion.

Any dog that is believed to have ingested a product containing xylitol should be rushed to a veterinarian immediately, even if symptoms have not appeared. Prompt and aggressive treatment increases chances for a better outcome.

Dr. Jon Rappaport of Petplace.com states that because cats are choosier about what they eat, accidental ingestion of xylitol is less common in felines and therefore its toxicity in cats has not been established. However, most cat owners don’t want to take chances.

Products Containing Xylitol

Although xylitol is often used in baking, sugar free gums, candies, toothpastes, and mouthwashes, pet owners need to take note that xylitol or its amounts may not always be listed as an ingredient in products or it may be listed as sugar alcohol.

Human toothpastes or oral hygiene products should never be used on dogs and pet owners should be careful not to leave any products that may contain xylitol in coat pockets or purses or anywhere else that it is in danger of tumbling out or becoming within reach of the dog. Many dog owners, as an extra precaution, won’t even use these products or bring them into their home.

How to Keep a Dog Cool in Summer

When you look through websites at ideas to buy our favourite pet, we always see products to keep our pets warm but not so many to keep them cool. Over recent years the Winters have been colder and the Summer hotter, we need to start thinking about ways to keep our pets cooler on very hot days, especially if we are out at work during the day.

In this article we’ll take a look at how to keep your dog cool on even the hottest days using products you can buy from good online retailers. Some of these products will also be good for cats as well so please read on.

Cooling vests

These vests are soaked in water for a few minutes and then put onto your dog using the fasteners. The fabric side of the vest next to your dogs fur is drier, but has the wetter exterior keeping your dog cooler for many hours. The vest can also be put into the refrigerator to keep your dog refreshed.

Memory foam pads

Memory foam pet pads are comfortable and cool for your pets. These are similar to a water bed with a memory foam top designed to be used for many hours of unattended use.

The bandana – for the dog with the cool look

Dog bandannas keep a dog cool by activating the cooling crystals in the bandana with water. The longer the bandanna is left in water the longer the effect of keeping your dog cooler. Cooling crystals are also used on some of the pet cooling pads.

The cool pet bed

Another product which is similar to the cool pads above is the pet bed with cushioned pillows around the sides. This bed is filled with water which stays in the core of the bed and spreads out perfectly to keep the whole base cooler.

Most of these cooling aids come with anti-mould finishes to keep the bed clean and smelling fresh, bit it can be a good idea to fill them up daily to keep them in perfect condition.

All of these pads and beds are constructed in such a way as to withstand damage from claws, but not really recommended for a dog that likes to chew its bedding.

All of these products are available in good pet retailers online. While all these products can help, always try and keep your pet in the shade and have plenty of fresh water available. With large dogs, consider one of the water feeders which will keep the bowl full on even the hottest day.

How to keep your dog cool is a question a lot of us ask ourselves in a hot Summer, but hopefully one of these products will help and that you both enjoy the Summer together.

How do I Know When My Dog is Ready to Give Birth?

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How do I know when my dog is ready to give birth? Whether you’re new to the breeding arena, or simply want a refresher course, there are some noticeable signs dogs show right before labor. Use this article to more accurately estimate when your dog will go into labor and how to prepare for the day.

Last Week Before Birth

The last week before labor, the dog begins to nest. Once she creates her safe, private space, she usually makes many trips per day to the location. Also, sometimes her behavior changes during this time. She may seek alone time much more often, or if she has a very close owner, she might seek significantly more attention and cuddle time.

Physically, the week before birth, the bitch’s mammary glands noticeably increase in size. This size change is meant to better accommodate the new puppies coming within the week. They appear as larger lumps around her nipples.

Two Days Before Labor

Once the female dog’s mammary glands swell, she begins producing milk about two days before giving birth. She might even leak some milk. Sometimes you see a waxy material on the end of the nipples. This is dried milk. If you’re taking her temperature regularly, this changes as well. How do I know when my dog is ready to give birth? Take her temperature. About two days before she goes into labor, her temperature drops to 99 degrees Fahrenheit.

Bitches become slightly uncomfortable and restless about two days before labor. They pace frequently and make even more trips to the nest. Also, if you watch, she’ll lick her genitals often. Although she won’t act agitated, she won’t seem comfortable either.

Dog Birth Preparation

If you haven’t gotten ready before this point, make sure you have some supplies on hand when your dog begins showing symptoms of labor. If you pay close attention to her signs, you’ll have a week of preparation to get everything together. Make sure you have towels, scissors, an eye dropper, sturdy cardboard box, and surgical gloves to assist her and her puppies if needed.

Don’t hesitate to call your veterinarian if you think your dog is straining too hard and not accomplishing anything during the birth. If you feel like her pre-labor behavior isn’t right either, call the vet. Just keep a close eye on your bitch and you’ll have a very good idea of when she’ll go into labor.

Training Dogs with Positive Reinforcement: Teaching Basic Commands Using Reward Based Training

The phrase ‘positive reinforcement’ can be broken down to mean adding a reward to a behavior in order to increase the occurrence of that behavior. The reward given must be something that your dog views as special such as a treat, affection, or a favorite toy. This technique can be used to shape a variety of behaviors.

The Importance of Timing

Good timing in training is crucial. Dogs live in the moment, and even a few second’s delay between the behavior and receiving the reward can make the training ineffective. Dogs are engaging in many behaviors at any given time, and in the few extra seconds taken to give them the reward they may have licked their lips, yawned or just made a simple movement, but any of these can be mistaken for the rewarded behavior. The reward must be given immediately following the desired behavior.

Teaching Sit

Teaching a dog to sit can be easily done by getting him to follow a treat. Begin by putting a small piece of treat in front of your dog’s nose and then bring it slowly up and over the dog’s head. In an effort to follow the treat, the dog should tilt his head back resulting in his hind end hitting the ground. If necessary, you can apply some pressure to the hind end to encourage him to sit. Reward him immediately when he is in the sitting position.

Practice this a few times before adding the word ‘sit’. The verbal command is not effective until he has a movement to associate the word with.

Teaching Down

The same technique can be used to teach your dog to lie down. When he are in the sitting position, start by putting a treat in front of his nose and then bringing it down between his front paws. In order to follow the treat, he should lie down on the floor. This may not work with every dog. If necessary, gently push down on his back as you lure him with the treat, or gently lift up the front paws and place them in the down position. Repeat this a few times before adding the word ‘down’. Give him the reward immediately when he is in position.

Teaching Come

The command ‘come’ is most effectively learned by using positive reinforcement. This can be a life saving command if the dog were ever to get loose, so it is important to never call your dog to you to scold, punish, or deliver anything he views as negative. If this is necessary, go to him instead. This will make sure that he never views coming to you as anything but a positive experience.

Practice calling your dog to you by saying the command ‘come’ and giving him his reward as soon as he gets to you. It may be helpful at first to squat down to his level or make fun sounds, such as whistling.

Fading the Reward

Once your dog is responding well to a command, it will not be necessary to give a reward every time. In your training sessions start giving the reward only every few times he does a certain behavior. This will keep him guessing and ensure that he will be able to obey a command even if you do not have a reward in hand.

Tips for a Hard-to-Housebreak Dog: Techniques to Eliminate Bathroom Accidents in Pets

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Housebreaking can be a challenging task, but using proper training techniques – like positive and negative feedback, crating, tethering and establishing a routine – can make the process quicker and more effective.

There are some dogs who just never really got the hang of proper bathroom habits, while others require the occasional refresher course.

“The key is proper communication. There are so many cases where the animal gets mixed messages, so she simply doesn’t understand which areas are off-limits and which areas are acceptable bathroom spots,” explained longtime dog trainer Edward Long.

Before beginning a housebreaking refresher course, a visit to the veterinarian’s office is recommended to rule out a medical cause for the behavior. An infection or illness can cause unusual bathroom habits, and no amount of training can change a behavior that’s rooted in a medical cause.

Dogs, like many other animals, are creatures of habit, so it’s common to see a dog having a bathroom accident in one or two inappropriate spots time and time again. With habits in mind, the following steps will help promote an acceptable bathroom routine:

  • Thoroughly clean the areas where accidents have occurred. Use an enzyme cleaner, like Nature’s Miracle, as this will break down the components of the urine or feces, effectively removing the scent. In addition to cleaning carpet stains, be sure to wipe down hard surfaces as well.
  • Communicate using scent and create a new bathroom spot. Use feces and urine-soaked paper towels to establish a new, more appropriate bathroom location. Dogs tend to follow their nose, and the scent of urine and feces will indicate to them that this is a bathroom location. Long explained, “If you bring a dog to a random spot in your yard, she’s not necessarily going to understand that you want her to pee there. But lead her to a spot that smells like a bathroom area, and this, combined with positive feedback, will effectively say, ‘Go here!’”
  • During the re-training process, limit access to the locations where accidents have occurred. This will help break the existing habit, and if an accident does occur, the trainer will be on-hand to issue an immediate correction.
  • If an accident does occur, the key is to provide negative feedback and an interruption. Using a noisemaker, like a soda can filled with coins, can serve to get the animal’s attention. A stern, loud “no” can also be effective, as is a squirt from a water bottle. In order for the dog to associate the negative feedback with the inappropriate action, the feedback must be given during or within three seconds of the inappropriate action. Negative feedback makes a behavior less likely to occur, while positive feedback makes a behavior more likely to occur.
  • Bring the dog to the appropriate bathroom spot immediately following the accident. Often, if a pet has been interrupted mid-stream, they will resume urination in the appropriate spot. Offer verbal praise during the appropriate bathroom incident and offer treats and affection immediately after the animal has completed his or her business.
  • Establish a feeding and bathroom schedule and keep a written log. If a dog eats at the same times every day, they will need a bathroom break at the same time every day as well. By adjusting a dog’s feeding schedule, owners can alter the animal’s bathroom habits to better fit their work or activity schedule. This will help limit bathroom accidents that occur because an animal simply cannot hold it any longer.
  • Anticipate your pet’s bathroom needs and bring them to an appropriate spot when they’re likely to need a bathroom break. Once the dog does his or her business, offer a positive feedback and a reward as reinforcement
  • Tethering your pet can be a good way to ensure supervision. Consistently rewarding each and every instance of good behavior and providing negative feedback on each and every instance of bad behavior will hasten the housebreaking process. Even the most well-intentioned pet owner may lose track of their dog for a few minutes, and this provides an opportunity for an accident. Keeping the dog on a short leash, which is then tethered to the owner’s belt loop, will ensure that you are on-hand to provide negative feedback each and every time an accident occurs.
  • Crate your pet when he or she is not supervised. When an appropriate sized crate is provided, the dog will not eliminate while inside unless there is an absolute dire need. This, combined with tethering pets when they’re out and about, will enable the owner to consistently give the appropriate feedback each time the animal eliminates.

Easing the Fears of a Velcro Dog: Separation Anxiety Can Constrict the Life of the Pet and Its Owner

Animal behaviorists label dogs too attached to one of their humans as velcro dogs, echoing the Velcro Syndrome that afflicts some insecure people. Small dogs, especially those thought of as lap dogs, are the ones most often affected, but surprisingly, golden retrievers also have a reputation of falling into this category.

These dogs are constantly beside their favored human, under her feet, and if she sits down, in her lap. Often they sleep with their owners. Their quest for attention is unremitting. As an extension of this behavior, they suffer great anxiety when the owner has to leave them for any length of time. Since the period of absence is traumatic for the dog, the returning pet guardian may come home to damage and disorder.

Circumstances That May Heighten Separation Anxiety

Any major changes in the dog’s environment may trigger more separation anxiety than usual. This could include someone moving in or out of the household, a move to a different residence, or a schedule change for dog and owner. Also, insecurity may be more pronounced following a vacation, either because the dog has had to stay in a kennel or shelter away from the owner or because dog and owner have been together constantly, without the interference of time at work.

The Consequences of Leaving an Anxiety-Prone Pet

Stress increases as the dog perceives his owner is about to leave. The first 20-45 minutes after the owner departs are the hardest for the pet. Boredom or the chance to engage in some of his favorite forbidden behaviors while no one is around to reprimand him may contribute to his actions.

Chewing, scratching, tearing objects apart, constant barking, and housebreaking lapses are common ways to cope. In addition, he may greet the owner’s return with wild enthusiasm, jumping and barking, and demanding attention. Despite what he has done, the owner needs to remember that insecurity and fear has led to his deeds, not an attempt to punish her.

Working Toward a Solution

The first step to solving the problem requires using tough love. When the dog insists on attention, the owner must ignore him till he calms down. Interactions must be on the owner’s terms. If the dog gets upset when the owner leaves for even a few minutes, establish a safety cue, like leaving a television playing, to reassure him that it will only be a temporary absence. This safety cue should only be employed for a short stay. Other strategies work better for longer absences.

To ease workday departures, try increasing the dog’s exercise – get him tired. Hide treats around the house or in some of the new toys designed for that purpose – keep him busy. Leave an article of clothing that carries his human’s smell to comfort him. Strive for a lowkey leavetaking and never draw attention to what he is not supposed to do. If all of these strategies fail, doggie day care can be a consideration.

A Brighter Future

The situation may initially get worse when the dog realizes his demands are not going to be immediately met as in the past, but it will be worth it not to give in. Eventually, the dog’s confidence will build, and he will be less insecure and demanding. And that will make everyone in the household happier.

Dog Health Symptoms: Is Your Dog Overheated?

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Heat stroke and heat exhaustion can happen for dogs as well as people. Just to be clear before discussing how to prevent heat stroke or heat exhaustion with a dog, let’s define heat stroke and heat exhaustion.

The Definition of Heat Stroke and Heat Exhaustion:

Heat stroke is defined by MedTerms.com as the body’s inability to regulate its temperature. This occurs when the body has prolonged exposure to high temperatures. It can also occur when strenuous exercise is prolonged for long periods of time without refuelling or rest. Heat exhaustion is a predecessor to heat stroke. Heat exhaustion is common in the summer time for elderly, people with high blood pressure, and construction workers that are not hydrating properly while working. Dogs are not immune to heat exhaustion or heat stroke and owners should be aware with high summertime temperatures. However dogs may not claim to have a headache. Owners need to know the signs of heat exhaustion in dogs to prevent heat stroke.

Symptoms of Heat Exhaustion in Dogs

The symptoms of heat exhaustion are the same in dogs as humans, but the characteristics of what to look for are a little different. Dogs sweat through their mouth, so owners need to be aware of when a dog is panting more than normal. Dehydration may be checked by looking at the color of the gums and checking the texture of the gums. Dry gums mean less hydration. Normal temperatures for dogs are around 103 degrees Fahrenheit. Temperatures above 105 degrees Fahrenheit is dangerous for a dog.

Prevention of Heat Exhaustion in Dogs

The key to preventing heat stroke in dogs is outlines by the following points:

  • Gradually increase exercise at higher temperatures as the seasons change from spring to summer
  • Carry water for the dog
  • Pay attention to when the dog is tired, or changes in temperament, as compared to when the dog is rested

Responding to Possible Heat Exhaustion

If a dog shows symptoms as discussed above, get the dog out of the heat immediately. Offer small amounts of room temperature water slowly. Dampen the dog’s fur and use ice under the pits if it’s available. When the dog is able to stand, move, have more energy, take it to the veterinarian’s office stated.

Depending on the breed, fluids may need to be given via a needle under the skin. The biggest way to prevent heat exhaustion and stroke is to never let the dog get to the point of dehydration. Also, keep in mind that swimming in water is still work, and that the dog needs to break to drink. Use common sense and keep man and his best friend healthy.

Review–How to Teach a New Dog Old Tricks

How to Teach a New Dog Old Tricks by Dr. Ian Dunbar is another in a list of his excellent short paperbacks that are designed to help new puppy owners have fun, gain a deep rapport with their pups, and get an early start on training. He presents the Sirius puppy training system with light-hearted humor and invites the new puppy owner to extend that light-heartedness to the process of learning to live with a dog.

Taking a Closer Look

Dr. Dunbar starts the ball rolling in this book by interviewing his Malamute, Omaha. This anthropomorphic, but humorous, dialog brings out a very important fact concerning the relationship between humans and canines: Both species are trying to communicate and failing in all but the most blunt circumstances.

What Dr. Dunbar proposes is that the human side of the equation can start early with establishing a baseline for communication that can mature with the puppy into a deep understanding that will make life easier and more enjoyable for dog and owner. In order for either species to understand the other, time, patience and good humor is necessary to adequately express what the bottom line is going to be for each individual. When this is established, life becomes relatively stress free for both human and canine.

The Sirius lure-reward system appeals to the food-based drive found in just about every dog. At the puppy stage this drive is pretty self-evident and works quickly as an attention-getting device and a positive reinforcement for good behavior. It is also an excellent way for cross-over animal trainers to hone their skills in the positive reinforcement training methods of today.

Dr. Dunbar also points out that the Sirius reward-based system can be used in adult dog training, teaching other species of animals, and adolescent and adult humans. Positive reinforcement, of which the Sirius system is a component, has scientifically and practically been proven to be a most effective way of teaching and training.

Recommendation: YES

Dr. Dunbar’s How to Teach a New Dog Old Tricks, is a fun read. What’s more, it answers a lot of questions that come up during a dog’s life. In this book there is none of the “Have to,” or “Must,” language found in many training texts. It is just great, good fun to read and apply the lessons. This would be an excellent book to add to a collection.