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Behavior modification training can teach dogs suffering from separation anxiety to relax and be calm even while their owners are away from the house.

Dogs suffering from canine separation anxiety suffer high levels of stress as well as causing emotional and financial hardships for their owners. However, with some time, patience, persistence and a few behavioral modification techniques, these dogs can often be rehabilitated and be able to lead normal anxiety-free lives in their owner’s homes.

Behavioral Modification Training Techniques for Use with Canine Separation Anxiety

Behavioral modification training techniques are geared toward increasing your dog’s confidence, allowing your dog to remain relaxed and calm, and relieving your dog’s anxiety. When you attempt a behavior modification training regimen for your dog, anti-anxiety drugs may make the process faster and easier. Consult your veterinarian for advice about medications such as Clomicalm or Reconcile.

Positive Reinforcement Versus Punishment

Though it may be difficult not to punish your dog when you find that he has misbehaved, punishing a dog suffering from separation anxiety is only likely to confuse your dog, cause additional anxiety and be counter-productive. When you find that your dog has made a mess while you are away, simply move your dog to another room and clean up the mess out of your dog’s sight.

Positive reinforcement involves rewarding your dog for appropriate behavior. Rewards may be in the form of favorite foods or treats, toys, or attention and affection from you. Only reward your dog when his behavior is calm and relaxed. If your dog is soliciting attention without invitation, greeting you exuberantly or otherwise misbehaving, simply ignore this behavior.

On arriving home after an absence, when your dog greets you at the door, do not pay attention. Go into another room of the house if you need to in order to escape your dog’s attention, but do not give your dog the attention he is seeking. Wait until your dog has calmed and is relaxed and then reward your dog.

Before very long, your dog will learn that calm, relaxed behavior brings pleasant rewards and inappropriate behavior does not.

You may want to prepare a special place for your dog in the home where your dog can feel safe and encourage and reward him when he goes to his safe place.

Leaving Home Without Upsetting Your Dog

Once your dog has learned to settle and be calm and relaxed, you will need to counter-condition your dog to your leaving the home. This will allow your dog to continue to be calm and relaxed while you leave and after you are gone. Again, you will need time and patience to achieve this.

Start by giving your dog something to distract him for a few moments before you get ready to leave. This may be a favorite toy or a Kong style toy which you can place a favorite food inside. The goal is to distract your dog for 20 to 30 minutes.

When you make your exit, simply leave. Do not stop to say good-bye to your dog. Do not make leaving your home a big deal for your dog.

Another technique useful for counter-conditioning is performing the tasks you normally perform before you leave, but do not actually leave. For instance, put on your coat, pick up your keys and your purse, then sit down on the sofa and watch TV. This will teach your dog that these tasks are not always associated with your leaving and he will not become alarmed when he sees you starting to perform them.

Developing Your Dog’s Sense of Independence

When beginning behavioral modification training, it is best to leave your home for very short periods of time at first and return before your dog starts to get upset.

As your pet becomes accustomed to your absences and is more comfortable, you can gradually increase the amount of time you stay away from your house. If you stay away too long and your dog becomes upset, simply decrease the time gone to a more comfortable time for him and try again the next day.

Because most of us have to work and cannot avoid leaving the house for longer periods, try to separate the behavior modification training exercises by altering your routine when you are not training. For instance, when you are going to work, you might crate your dog or place him in a closed room while letting him remain free in the house only when you perform the behavior modification techniques.

Before long, your dog will be comfortable and relaxed while you are away and you will not need to worry about destructive behavior when you leave the house.

Wondering how to obedience train your dog by yourself? If you don’t live near an obedience school, don’t despair. You can train effectively all by yourself.

Dog-training books (or videos or DVDs) are the solution. There are many training methods, so read several books by different trainers to find one suited to you and your dog, .

Many older books teach force training. It usually works, but today there are better options available, so it’s no longer recommended.

Some trainers teach a reward system using food, toys or even just praise. It works well, but using food has some disadvantages, sticky pockets being one! Dogs that are not motivated by food may work for a toy. For some dogs, the best reward is praise. Many dogs will do anything to be petted and hear, “Good dog!”

You also can provide a special reward at the end of a training session. Many police canine units use this because the dog happily works for praise and to receive that special treat, such as a snack or a toy, that the dog never gets at any other time.

Who’s in Charge?

Several popular “dog whisperers” advocate a method based on establishing the owner as alpha (pack leader) to ensure your dog knows you are in charge. This is often combined with other methods, especially for teaching specific skills. This style of teaching is effective and probably works best for teaching the basic skills a dog needs to be a well-behaved pet.

Clicker training was adapted from the type of motivational training originally developed to teach captive dolphins. It requires a little device that makes a clicking noise.

This method starts with food as a lure. For example, to teach a dog to sit, you hold the food above the dog’s nose and move it backwards, saying “sit”, until the dog automatically sits. You click and give him the treat. Every time he sits on command (with or without the food lure), he hears a click.

Soon he will realize the click means he did something correctly. Once he understands that, you can teach him almost anything. This method works extremely well for advanced training and teaching tricks.

So, if they all work, how do you choose? Read several books until you find a method that you feel comfortable using. Then try it, be consistent, and if your dog responds well, you are on the right track.

Remember to be flexible! You may find your dog responds to one method for some skills, but needs a different method or combination of methods to learn others, especially for advanced training.

Three Little Rules

However you train, there are three main considerations.

First, keep sessions short. Dogs get bored, just like people. Learning new things can’t be rushed. Remember that your dog actually has to learn how to learn first. Five minutes or even less is best when you begin training.

Second, keep it fun. If things aren’t going well, or you aren’t in a good mood, just stop. If possible, have the dog do something simple that he already knows, so his last memory of the lesson will be praised for doing something right.

Third, be patient. You can’t expect results overnight. Each dog is different in terms of how quickly he learns, how much he retains from one session to the next and how much information he can process at once. What takes one dog a few days to master may take another dog a month, not because he is stupid, but because his brain processes information differently.

Whatever you do, remember that your dog is an intelligent individual who wants to please you. Work with him, encourage him to succeed, develop a partnership, and you will end up with a well-behaved companion

Choosing a new dog is a big decision that needs to be carefully thought out so the dog is compatible with your own temperament and lifestyle. Here are some useful tips.

If you have never owned a dog before, go with a breed that is very trainable, non-aggressive and easy to get along with.

Certain breeds are definitely not for inexperienced dog people. They are great dogs in the right hands, but too dominant and strong-willed for a first-time owner. Some examples include the Komondor, Rottweiler, Akita, Cane Corso, American Staffordshire Terrier, Briard, Kuvasz, Black Russian Terrier and Alaskan Malamute.

First-time owners would do better with a breed like a Newfoundland, Sussex Spaniel, Brittany Spaniel, retired Greyhound, Beagle, English Setter, Poodle, one of the toy or non-sporting breeds or one of the small or medium terriers. However, some terriers are not ideal candidates for first-timers, as they can be bossy and very assertive.

Golden and Labrador Retrievers and English Springer Spaniels are good, too, but some are high energy, so a first-time owner should look for one from a line of calmer dogs.

How Active are You?

Retrievers, pointers, most spaniels, many hounds and working breeds and virtually all of the herding breeds are ideal for people who like to jog, hike or cycle with their dogs. Small breeds can be very active, but may tire or have trouble keeping up simply because of their short legs. Flat-faced breeds are not good candidates for prolonged exercise because their breathing is restricted.

If you are more interested in playing with your dog in the park or yard or going for walks, consider one of the toy breeds, terriers, non-sporting breeds or a small hound or spaniel. Some large breeds are genuine couch potatoes.

How Smart are You?

All dogs are smart, but some are almost over the top. Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retrievers, Border Collies and Australian Shepherds are three breeds in particular that, while easy-going and good-natured, are often too smart for first-timers. They are very active, very clever and can become obsessed with work, whether it’s retrieving a tennis ball or herding anyone and anything that moves.

These dogs need to be challenged mentally and physically and don’t make good couch potatoes. But if you can keep them busy, and if you are ready for mental gymnastics to stay one step ahead of the dog, one of these breeds could be perfect for your family.

What About Grooming and Health?

Short-haired dogs are easier to keep clean and don’t need constant brushing, but they shed short hairs all year long. Dogs with heavier coats shed once or twice a year and need weekly brushing (daily while shedding). They also needs to be checked constantly for tangles, matted fur and foreign objects like twigs and burrs. Poodles and Portuguese Water Dogs also must be clipped regularly.

Long-haired dogs like Afghans, Lhasa Apsos, Shih Tzus, Samoyeds and Rough Collies are not supposed to be clipped. If you can’t dedicate yourself to proper coat care, do yourself and the dog a favour and buy a short-haired breed instead.

Some breeds have a high incidence of specific inherited diseases such as hip problems, blindness or epilepsy. Take that into consideration when choosing a breed. A sick dog can cost you a lot of money over the years.

Big or Small?

Some big dogs are pretty laid back, so don’t automatically assume a big dog is more work. But big ones do cost more to feed, need more space and are harder to transport.

Consider your lifestyle before deciding what size is best for you. If you have young children, don’t get a toy breed, since they can be injured by rough play. But they are wonderful for older children.

Less Common Breeds

Want something different? A breed not as well known to the general public might be right for you.

A few to consider: Schipperke, Keeshond, Papillon, Tibetan Spaniel, Japanese Chin, Clumber Spaniel, English Cocker Spaniel, Vizsla, Swedish Vallhund, Scottish Deerhound, Petit Basset Griffon Vendeen, Ibizan Hound, Saluki, Brussels Griffon, Havanese, Eurasier, French Bulldog, Smooth Collie and Shiba Inu.

Cocker spaniels are small sporting dogs that come in two “flavors”. One is long-haired and American. The other is sporty and from the UK.

Cocker spaniels are the smallest of the working land spaniels. The English springer spaniels were the largest of this family, while the field spaniel made up the middle sizes. At one time all three sizes could be found in the same litter and were registered according to size. Today, the cocker spaniel has been split into two separate breeds, one evolving in the United States and having long, flowing hair, and the other evolving in Britain and remaining relatively similar to the field and springer spaniel breeds.

The two breeds have a similar origin in these smaller spaniels, but the American cocker has evolved as a much more glamorous dog, greatly loved by the dog show fancy. The English breed still maintains a working-type in addition to its feathery show-type. It is because of these differences that appeared in the breed on both sides of the Atlantic, that the two have been split into separate breeds.

The American Cocker

The American cocker spaniel is known as the cocker spaniel in the United States, because to Americans, this is the cocker spaniel. The American Kennel Club recognized the cocker spaniel breed in 1878 in the early years of the American dog fancy. The breed was imported from Britain, where it had been used to flush game birds that ran into deep thickets. Among these birds were the woodcocks, and the cocker got its name for being a specialist at flushing woodcock. The American fancier had no real use for the dog as a flusher of game.

The American Type Evolves.

That task was left up to larger springer spaniels, field spaniels, and Sussex spaniels, which were also being imported. The American water spaniel and the Boykin spaniel could also be used as a flushing spaniel. The vast majority of cockers imported to the United States at this time became family pets and show dogs. The really long hair on the American cocker did not become established until after the Second World War, but the American cocker always had a broader skull than the English. It was decided that it would be a bit shorter in the leg as well. American cockers are generally not used for hunting, but a few fanciers are trying to develop it back into a flushing spaniel. A few individuals exist in certain lines that lack the really long coat of the modern show cocker, and these are much sought after for those wanting this breed to be a hunting dog.

The English Cocker

The other breed of cocker spaniel is the English cocker, which is called the cocker spaniel in the rest of the world. It is called the English cocker because its breed type was established in Britain. It resembles a smaller version of the field and English springer spaniels to which it is closely related. It has a longer muzzle and copious feathering on its legs and feet, but this spaniel’s feathering is less profuse than the American cocker. The English cocker was first separated from the American in the United States. In 1936, a meeting was held in Bryn Mawr, Pennsylvania, to create a separate registry and standard for the English-type cocker.

Finally Separated

The two breeds remained the same breed until 1938, when the English cocker club made a rule that no member of the club could breed an English-type cocker to an American-type cocker. The English cocker was then separated off as its own breed. English cockers occur in working-type form, as well, which is lightly built and in various colors. It resembles the working-type springer spaniel. English cockers tend to be more responsive to training than Americans, but red English cockers are prone to a condition called avalanche of rage syndrome in which the dog attacks without warning. This has been a problem in some lines of English cockers and springers

Once you have brought home your new dog or puppy, you should strongly think about enrolling in a dog/puppy training course. Not only will it give you the confidence to handle your dog/puppy effectively, but training classes are the ideal place to socialise your dog. When you’re out walking your pooch, other dog walkers may not be so keen to socialise then.

If you can’t make it to a dog training class or there is a bit of wait until the next course starts, you can try this basic exercise to instill some obedience into your dog. It is called the Gate Exercise.

Gate Exercise

Follow these steps in order. Remember to take your time and remain calm.

1. Dog and handler approach the gate. Get close enough to the gate so that the handler can easily reach to open it.
2. Handler to tell the dog to sit. Remember the dog must be close enough to the gate so that the lead/leash does not go tight when the handler goes through the gate. A tight lead/leash will encourage the dog to move with you.
3. Handler to open the gate and let it swing open.
4. Handler to tell the dog to wait, give a hand signal (most handlers use a flat hand signal) and turn towards the gate. Remind the dog to sit and wait and put one leg through the gate opening. It is necessary whilst the dog is learning what we want, to hesitate and give the command again. If needed, the handler could give a treat at this point.
5. When the dog is settled, the handler tells the dog to wait again and moves the other leg through the gate. Again, if the dog moves, handler stops moving and commands the dog to sit again.
6. When the dog is sitting and waiting, (it may only be for 1 or 2 seconds) handler will call the dog through the gate and praise and reward treats.
7. Once the dog has practised sitting and waiting to come through the gate, we can then add the final element to the exercise. This would be to ask the dog to sit again when through the gate and wait whilst the handler shuts the gate.

With this exercise, it is very important to start slowly. The dog will probably get excited by the handler’s movements, but the handler needs to stay firm and calm.

You can use any gate with this exercise. It can be a garden gate or even an indoor baby gate. Make sure there is plenty of room on both sides when you practise. Getting the gate exercise under control is extremely helpful when you have visitors at the front door or when you’re getting ready to go out. The dog will respond to the commands of ‘sit’ and ‘wait’.

Good luck!