Should I Get A Dog?

44% of Americans own a dog, so it’s unsurprising that a common debate is whether or not you should get a dog, too. Getting a dog should not be a spur-of-the-moment decision; there are a lot of things to take into account.

Dogs are huge responsibilities. They’re basically helpless, and they never grow out of that stage; you have to care for them and make sure that they can take care of themselves.

However, similar to a child, making the decision to buy or adopt a dog can be very rewarding, too. Dogs are called “man’s best friend” for a reason.

While making the decision of whether or not to own a dog, you should weigh the pros and cons.

The pros:

• Companionship! This is the main reason for why so many people have dogs, and why they’re called “man’s best friend”—they make excellent companions. Dogs are known for being ridiculously loyal. It doesn’t matter if you accidentally step on their tail or give them a much-hated bath; they’ll still come back to you with their tail wagging, ready to romp with you, and they always have more love to give. They feel like real friends, they are always available, and they are terrific listeners.

 

• Health! Dogs are great for your health. Besides for being able to sniff out life-threatening illnesses, like cancer or an imminent seizure, dogs will greatly improve your health in general. Studies show that people who have a dog are less likely to get heart attacks, lower blood pressure caused by mental stress, and are in general great for getting exercise. (One study found that dog owners are 60% more likely to get the recommended amount of exercise per week.) They can even boost your immune system!

 

• Mental and emotional wellbeing! Dogs can overall improve mental and emotional wellbeing. Studies have shown reduced signs of anxiety and depression in dog owners, as well as reduced stress levels. The science doesn’t lie!

 

• Being social! Studies show that dog owners have higher self-esteem and are better at resilience after a social rejection, and they tend to feel less lonely, reducing feelings of social isolation. Dog owners also often meet each other during walks and such, so other than just feeling more social, dog owners actually tend to be more social.

 

• You’re happy! Dogs literally make you happier. One study monitored how many times people laughed in a day, and dog owners scored much higher than non-dog-owners. Dog owners are also less depressed and lonely, less stressed, and in general have better mental and emotional wellbeing than people who don’t own dogs. Also, interacting with your dog can spike your oxytocin levels, a chemical in your body that makes you feel happy, similar to how you might feel when interacting with a baby.

 

• Cuddling! Dogs are great cuddle buddies! If your dog is small enough, it can curl up on your lap; if it’s not, you guys can still lie down next to each other. Dogs love to be petted and cuddled, and they’re always down for a cuddle session.

 

• Cuteness! Dogs are downright adorable to the point of making your heart melt, and honestly, who doesn’t like the “warm and fuzzy” feeling that accompanies the rush of oxytocin that occurs upon laying eyes on your beloved puffbutt? If you fawn over your dog when your dog is a puppy, beware that this will not wear off.

 

The cons:

• Responsibilities! Dogs are huge responsibilities. You must make sure your dog is fed and watered, caught up on hygiene, up-to-date with all shots, and well-loved and cared for. You also have to clean up your dog’s messes, including when it slips up and pees or poops in the wrong place, and unlike a child, your dog is fine with intentionally throwing up on your expensive, one-of-a-kind rug. They are similar to small children in this respect, and worse, they do not grow out of most of these things. They will never reach the age of being able to get their own food or brush their own teeth or bathe themselves; you will be forever destined to take care of them.

 

• Vet visits! Vet visits are a huge part of having a dog. Vet visits are an expensive—yet necessary—evil. Worse, if your dog is acting strange in any way, it’s your responsibility to take them to the vet and figure out what’s wrong. Your dog can’t speak; it can’t tell you if something’s wrong, and if you notice abnormal behavioral patterns in your dog, it also can’t tell you what’s wrong. Sometimes, your dog will get sick and you will be compelled to pay $700 USD for a vet visit, only to find out that your dog never needed the visit in the first place and will get better on its own. (These expensive emergency visits are also why people buy pet insurance, though that doesn’t mean that they won’t be a financial strain anyway.)

 

• Fear and allergies! Many people are afraid of dogs. It doesn’t matter if your dog appears as a five-pound, fluffy white throw pillow; people will be afraid of it, and they will cower in fear. Similarly, many people are allergic to dogs, and it is for these reasons that you will often have to lock your dog up or otherwise keep it away from visiting guests.

 

• They’re a drain on your finances! I’ve already covered how ridiculously expensive vet visits are, especially unexpected ones; throw in food, toys, overall gear (like leashes and collars), and cleaning supplies. You need to seriously think about whether your wallet can handle that kind of strain.

 

• You need to be home a lot! Dogs keep you rooted. You need to feed them, walk them, and bathe them. You can’t just leave them alone and expect them to be okay if someone visits a couple of times a day. It’s okay to leave them at home for an afternoon or with a sitter if you’re going on the occasional vacation, but if you regularly leave the house for long periods of time (say, longer than a day), getting a sitter all the time just isn’t viable, and you won’t be able to provide a very good home for your pooch.

 

• It’s a commitment! Your dog isn’t a hamster; it won’t die after two or three years. When you get a dog, you’re facing the reality that you will probably own this dog for a dozen years or so. You can’t get a dog just for college, and you shouldn’t get a dog if you’re planning an eventual upheaval where you move far away and go on a crazy adventure.

 

• Fights! If you have children, they may end up fighting over your dog and who gets to cuddle it or sleep with it or pet it. They will also probably make the classic argument when you originally buy the dog: I’ll walk it and feed it and clean up after it! Pllleeeaaaassseee? Well, trust me when I say that they won’t. For the first few weeks, sure. The second you show a sign of being attached, your children suddenly make themselves scarce when it comes time to walk, feed, or otherwise care for your dog.

So, we’re back to where we started:

Should you get a dog?

Firstly, a piece of advice: If someone from your family has an allergy, that doesn’t mean that it is impossible to buy a dog. If your family member has an allergy to the fur and not the actual animal, there are hypoallergenic dogs out there for the very purpose of being best buds with humans who have an allergy to dogs. So, don’t assume that, if a family member is allergic, it’s game over. I personally have an allergy to dogs, yet I own an adorable, hypoallergenic fuzzykinz. Have hope. (If you want a hypoallergenic dog that is small, white, around twelve pounds, and can be mistaken for a blanket or pillow, going for a dog that is a toy poodle/bichon mix is a safe bet.)

Secondly and similarly, if a family member fears your dog, it is also not the end of the world. Several people who are normally terrified of dogs warmed up to my dog when they got to know her. The reason is that my family owns a dog that is small and harmless, and many (though unfortunately not all) people who get to know my dog are charmed by her cuteness and harmlessness. (Again, if you want a dog like this, I mentioned the exact breed in the paragraph above.)

So, now that we’ve gotten the “fear/allergies” con out of the way, we still have to face the question of whether or not to get a dog.

The short answer is a simple it depends; the long one is the process of weighing the pros and cons so that they fit your individual situation. You may have a lot of delicate rugs that you can’t afford to get pee or barf on; you may not have children, or they may not fight often; you may yearn for a cuddle buddy.

Also, if you decide to get a dog, you also have to make the decision of whether to buy or adopt the dog. It is recommended to adopt; the argument that you want a puppy can be refuted by pointing out that shelters also have puppies. Furthermore, adopting a dog saves both the life of the dog you’re adopting and the life of the dog that the shelter now has the room to take in.

The dog may also have already gotten its shots, and it might even be potty-trained. And finally, when you adopt a dog from a shelter, you are denying that business to a store. Stores usually get their dogs from puppy mills, which are known to keep their dogs in revolting and unhealthy conditions; they force the mothers to breed as many times as possible, they keep the dogs in extremely filthy and cramped conditions, they would rather kill a dog than provide medical service to it, and they separate puppies from their mothers way earlier than they should. In other words, puppy mills need to be put out of business.

As it is, dogs make wonderfully sweet, adorable companions that will never leave your side, and though they may be big responsibilities, they may also bring more happiness and love to your life. I wish you the best in making the decision of getting a new addition to the family!

 

Dog Body Language 101: The Ultimate Guide to Interpreting Non-Verbal Canine Language

Ok, really…

Wouldn’t it be great if dogs talked, like converse in human languages?

It’d take out a truckload of the guesswork and uncertainty associated with consistently trying to read your dog’s feelings, actions, and what not.

But:

Even if that were possible in an alternate universe, verbal communication is but one form of communication. Non-verbal communication is just as important, if not more, even between humans.

In fact, according to human behavior experts, over 80% (that’s huge) of human communication is understood by interpreting non-verbal behaviors and cues.

I wouldn’t attempt to extrapolate that stat for human-canine communication, but the undeniable fact is that dogs are just as likely to express their emotional state, motivations, and intentions through non-verbal signals.

And it is a no-brainer why it is important to have the ability to understand these signals and vibes, holistically referred to as dog body language. Your ability to maintain top-level communication confidently and safely with your dog (part of which is the ability to read your dog’s vocal and non-vocal signals) is the very foundation of your owner-canine relationship.

Thankfully, reading a dog’s body language is not an impossible prospect.

Primary modes of sending non-verbal signals

It starts with identifying how a dog primarily sends non-verbal signals.

To draw an analogy, humans send non-verbal signals using different parts of the body, such as:

• A nod of the head,
• A wink of the eyes,
• Reddening of the cheeks,
• Gesticulating with hands,
• Overall body posture, stance, and/or gait

Like human body language, canines use specific body parts for primary non-vocal communication. These parts include:

• Head; primarily the eyes, mouth, and ears
• Tail
• Hair
• Using the entire body to make a reflective posture

Eyes

The three factors to note when observing your dog’s eyes are:

• Size of his eyes,
• Direction of his gaze, and
• Intensity of his gaze

Size

Dogs have different eye shapes—round, almond, oval, triangular; dimensions; coloration; and retinal configurations. However, the more important attribute to watch out for is the relative size of a dog’s eyes—the relative size can tell a lot about his mood and emotional state.

A relaxed, happy dog has no reason to alter the normal shape of his eyes, and wouldn’t. Things change however, when there is a stimulus.

• If the dog perceives this stimulus to be a threat, he’d typically respond by making his eyes appear larger
• If the stimulus is fright, stress, pain, or illness, then the eyes would seem smaller than usual and may even appear as a squint
• Sometimes, there needn’t be a stimulus for a dog to squint his eyes. Dogs usually squint when making a submissive grin, which is an appeasement gesture.

Direction and intensity of gaze

Between dogs, eye-to-eye contact isn’t a regular feature. It’s typically reserved for confrontations and prelude to rumbles. However, dogs learn it is ok to look directly at people.

• And typically one of the fondest memories you’d have of your dog is him looking at you with cute puppy eyes and a relaxed facial expression. He does this when he is being friendly and wants you to notice him.
• You’d be damned however if you came across a dog that gave you same direct gaze but with a tense stare. This is most likely a threat and you want to look away slowly.
• A dog does not always give a direct stare with tense facial expression to indicate readiness to become aggressive. He may give a “whale eye,” which involves him looking out of his eyes’ corners and you see much of his eyes’ whites.

You are most likely to get a whale eye when the dog is guarding a resource—toy, chew bone, or favorite spot.

• You should note that a whale eye is different from a sideway glance. A dog giving a sideway glance would not appear tense or rigid, and you wouldn’t see as much of his eyes’ whites.
• In some other scenarios, a dog would avert his gaze when you look at him. This may be a signal that he is being submissive. It may also be a signal that he is concerned about interacting with you (this may be as a result of him not having confidence to deal with people, due to an unpleasant history with people).

Mouth

As regards reading the non-vocal language of a dog’s mouth, you want to pay attention to the positioning of his lips, jaws, and teeth in tandem.

• A relaxed, happy dog would typically shut his mouth or open it slightly. If he keeps his mouth open, it is likely that he is panting (how dogs regulate their temperature), and you’d prolly see his teeth.
• A fearful dog may horizontally draw his lips back in a way that make his lips tight at the corners of the mouth. Possible display of his front (canines and incisors) and back teeth (premolars and molars) accompany this lip positioning.
• Dogs might yawn in an exaggerated fashion if they’re feeling uptight.
• A dog would also typically shut his mouth when he feels frightened or submissive. Furthermore, you’d prolly notice one or more of the following: lips slightly pulled back at the corners, in and out flicking of his tongue, or licking when interacting with another animal or a person.
• If the feeling of submissiveness is excessive, some dogs would make a ‘submissive grin.’ It involves lifting the lips up vertically and displaying the front teeth. Some people would mistake this grin as an aggressive gesture, when it is the exact opposite.
• You’re less likely to mistake a dog’s mouth positioning when he is aggressive. He’d typically retract his lips and prominently show his teeth. When he’s giving a warning not to intrude, he’d likely lift up his lips vertically, which will put his front teeth on display, and at the same time wrinkle the top of his muzzle.
• A dog that is ready to bite would usually push his lips up and back to open his mouth and expose his teeth.
• Another aggressive mouth positioning is an ‘aggressive pucker.’ This involves pushing the lips forward over the teeth, then exhaling air to make the lips appear large and puffy. Sometimes, you’d notice the dog breathing heavily and he may have a wrinkled forehead. A dog would typically give this signal when he doesn’t want you to get closer.

Ears

Some of us have the exciting ability to wiggle their ears. For dogs though, it is more of a standard trait. And you can use the ear positioning of your dog to ascertain his underlying emotional state.

• A relaxed, comfortable dog will hold his ears in its natural position.
• Should he be alert or curious, you’d notice him raise his ears higher and position them in the direction of whatever is piquing his interest.
• A dog feeling aggressive would raise his ears up and forward.
• When he wants to be friendly, he would pull his ears back slightly.
• A dog feeling frightened or submissive would usually stick out his ears to the sides of his head or keep his ears completely flattened.

Tail

For most people, the default interpretation of a wagging tail is happiness and friendliness. Sure, this is often true, but not always. A dog uses its tail to give off a range of signals, some of which are easy to miss.

Dog breeds have different tail lengths, forms, and sizes. Ultimately, the type of tail a dog has influences his ability to express himself using his tail. This is particularly important to note since some breeders and owners perform tail docking on their dogs. It is not only often painful; it also impedes the ability of a dog to communicate properly with his tail.

• A relaxed dog will hold his tail in its natural position.
• And when he is happy, you’ll notice the familiar side-to-side gentle wagging. The wagging will be more forceful and may even be in a circular pattern if he is very happy, which often happens when you and your dog reconnect after being apart for a long time.
• A dog would also wag his tail from side to side if he is submissive or nervous. Alternatively, he might hold his tail lower or even tuck his tail between his rear legs. If he is being extremely submissive or scared, you’d notice him hold his tail against his belly.
• You may also observe tail movement when a dog is threatening another animal or a person, or he is standing his ground. Called a ‘flag,’ this tail movement involves holding his tail high and stiff, and moving it back and forth rigidly.

Although, it may appear like he is waggling his tail, the signals he’d give with other body parts would be anything but friendly.

• An alert or aroused dog wouldn’t move his tail. Rather, he’d usually hold it higher than normal, stiff, and without any movement.

Hair

A dog using his hair to give a signal would do either of two things:

• Shed, or
• Raise his hair

Dogs shed hair in copious amount when they are fearful or stressed. A typical instance where you’d notice this is during a visit to your vet. If your dog is nervous during one of these visits, you’d find that your dog’s hair would be all over the vet and the table.

Another way dogs respond when they are scared or nervous is to raise their hackles. The scientific term is piloerection. Both are fancy ways to refer to a dog raising his hair when he is aroused about something. You could compare it to a person having goose bumps.

Typically, the dog would raise the hair over the ridge where the shoulder blades meet (withers). But many dogs are capable of raising the hair all along their spine. Dogs raise their hackles to appear larger and would typically also release odor from glands in the hair follicles.

Piloerection could be an indication of a variety of emotional states—anger, uncertainty, excitement, fear, or insecurity about something.

Whole Body Posture

Dogs use their body to communicate intentions by either appearing:

• Normal,
• Smaller, or
• Larger

Normal

You’d expect a relaxed, contented, and happy dog to maintain their normal body size. He would relax his muscles in a normal fashion and balance his weight evenly on all four feet.

Even if he is in a good mood with quite a bit of bouncing or running with exaggerated movements, the relaxation of his muscles and facial expression will look natural.

Smaller

• A fearful or frightened dog would adjust his overall appearance to look small. This might involve him lowering his body, cowering on the ground, and/or holding his head low.

He’ll also attempt to avoid whatever is making him frightened. For example, if he is scared on an examination table, he will recoil away from the vet, preferring instead to lean into you.

• You’ll observe a submissive dog behave similarly to convey the message that he is not a threat. Like a fearful dog, he may lower his body or cower on the ground. However, he may raise his head if he is greeting another animal or a person.
• An uncertain but curious dog would take a slightly altered approach. He’ll adopt a stance you’ll consider careful—approaching tentatively to whatever he is curious about and centering his weight over his rear legs. This is so he can make a quick retreat/exit should there be the need to.

Larger

• An aroused, alert, or assertive dog would adjust his appearance to look large. You would observe his muscle become tense, he’d stand erect and may even be on his tiptoes, and he’d raise his head and neck above his shoulders.

Furthermore, he’d center his weight over his four feet or he’d leaning slightly forward on his front legs.

• An aggressive, angry dog would also appear large. This is because he wants to appear as intimidating as possible. And he’d give off other aggressive threats in addition to adopting a posture that an aroused, alert, or assertive dog would make.

However, he’d typically center his weight over his front legs (unlike a curious dog that is careful). This is so he can make a quick dash or charge forward rapidly.

An holistic, peculiar approach to reading your dog’s body language

When a dog communicates with his body, he’d usually use more than one body part to send signals. This isn’t necessarily complicating the message, but expressing it better.

For example, a dog making a ‘submissive grin’ would lift up his lips vertically and display his front teeth. Solely considering this, it is possible to misinterpret the mouth positioning as a sign of aggressiveness. But, you’d better understand the signal of submissiveness when you observe other body parts—lowering of his head, squinting of his eyes, and yelping or whining.

This instance underscores why reading a dog’s body language should be done holistically. Even if the message is subtle, with careful attention to the primary parts used for non-verbal communication (and sometimes vocal forms of communication—barking, whining, et cetera) you can recognize and interpret the message.

The different common canine non-verbal vibes

1. Happy, Playful

Relaxed, Contented, Happy, Playful

It is fun to be around a happy dog. There is no tension, his body is relaxed and fluid, nothing is unusual about his mouth or body posture, and the vibe you get is confidence, joy, and readiness for play and attention.

Observations

• Eyes are natural, blinking, or squinty
• Mouth is closed or opened slightly, tongue is relaxed and may be drooping to one side, and he may be pant with a regular tempo. Mouth corners (commissure) may be slightly raised like a makeshift smile.

When playful, he might growl or make high-pitched barks.

• Ears are natural
• Entire facial expression is neutral as his facial muscles are relaxed.

When he is playful, you might notice a “play face.” This involves him opening the mouth partially to appear as though he is smiling.

• Tail may be held in natural position or wagged from side to side or in a circular motion
• He may wiggle his back side
• Overall physique is natural and he might turn over to invite a belly rub

He may also invite play or at least give indication that he is in a playful mood (and as such following actions shouldn’t be taken seriously) by making a “play bow.” This involves him bouncing with his forelegs on the ground and hind legs extended to make his rear stick up.

Body movements would be bouncy or jerky. He may also bounce in exaggerate twists, leaps, and turns. Jumping on you and mouthing aren’t ruled out. During play, he may have small body freezes.

Excited

This vibe is intense and similar to what you’d get off him when he is alert or playful. You’d notice that he is prepped for action.

Observations

• Eyes are natural and he is transfixed on the source of his excitement, mouth is often open and he may bark, ears are up
• Tail is held high, and wagging may or may not occur
• Size is natural and he may center his weight over his rear legs in preparation to move

2. Fearful, Nervous, Stressed

Discomfort, fearful, nervous, stressed

A nervous, fearful, or stressed dog would give off signals that serve either of two purposes:

• relieve the stress, or
• appease the perceived threat

Observations

• Eyes are transfixed on the threat or the dog might turn his head away as an appeasement gesture
• He might yawn in an exaggerated way; flick his tongue; lick his lips; engage in raspy, dry-sounding pant; or drool
• Ears are flattened back on his skull
• Facial muscles are rigid and tense—curved eyebrows, furrowed brow, tense jaw with mouth closed, twitching whiskers
• Tail is held low or tucked between the rear legs
• Piloerection may occur
• Overall body size is smaller as he keeps his body hunched. Additionally, he may cower close to the ground, center his weight over his rear legs while leaning should he have to make a hasty retreat, or lean to the side in anticipation of having to recoil.

His body may freeze briefly, or until the threat goes away or he decides to engage in fight or flight. You may also notice him shaking and he may have sweaty paws.

Fearful Aggressiveness

A fearfully aggressive dog has about the same appearance as a fearful dog. The fearfully aggressive stance is an escalation from just being fearful or an alternative response to appeasement.

Not all dogs will resort to aggression when they are fearful, but some will see that as the only available choice if he feels trapped with no obvious avenues for escape.

Body size will still be smaller and he’d continue to cower. However, he’d begin to show his teeth and might snarl or growl. Any bite or snap from him will be lightening quick, followed by an equally quick retreat as far away from the threat as he can get.

Some dogs would not bite until they notice the threat retreating, and then they’ll go at the threat in an attempt to nip from behind.

Displacement

In the face of a perceived threat, dogs may also engage in behavior that’d provide self-calm and/or divert attention to something else other than them. For instance, a dog sniffing the ground would get the threat to focus on the act of sniffing rather than the dog himself or any negative intention.

A dog may also engage in these behaviors when he desires an outlet to eschew pent up frustration or energy. Sometimes, displacement actions can be the underlying reason for exhibiting compulsive behaviors, such as excessive licking or spinning.

Observations

• sniffing or sneezing,
• yawning, licking the nose, or chattering the teeth
• pacing, spinning, or shaking the body in a way that mimics getting water off their back

3. Aggressive

Dominance

A dog exhibiting dominant behavior wouldn’t appear assertive but not overly aggressive, although it can be a precursor to aggressiveness.

Observations

• Eyes are locked on the subject of his attention
• Mouth is typically closed, although he may growl
• Ears are raised and have a forward orientation
• Tail is rigid and high. He may flag or quiver the tail at its end.
• Piloerection may or may not occur
• Overall body posture is adjusted in a way to appear larger, including standing tall and sometimes on tiptoes, distributing his weight squarely on all four feet or he may slightly lean forward, arching his neck, and appearing tense

Dog Fears And Phobia And How To Overcome Them

Defensively Aggressive

A dog that encounters a perceived or actual threat would be either submissive or aggressive. Both are natural responses to ensure individual safety.

An aggressive dog typically gives off the “back off and let me be” vibe, and would often give lots of warning in a defensive posture to prevent physical altercation. You’d notice a mix of fearful and aggressive postures when a dog is defensively aggressive.

In general, this posture is sometimes a bluff, as the dog may opt to retreat if things escalate. However, for some dogs, the next course of action following this posture depends on the prevailing level of confidence and fear they feel.

Observations

• Lips are drawn back, teeth are visible, and you may or may not notice wrinkling of the muzzle. Furthermore, he’d usually bark (often high-pitched), snarl, or growl.
• Ears are up and oriented forward
• Tail is rigid and held high
• You may notice piloerection
• Overall body figure would appear larger, and he may center his weight variedly depending on the situation—it may be squarely on all four legs, just the forelegs, or only the rear legs.

How he centers his weight would depend on proximity to the threat and intention—to retreat, charge forward, or stand his ground.

Offensively Aggressive

The feeling of anger and confidence is often a potent cocktail to spark offensively aggressive body language.

The intention is clear; he is to give all he’s got in an all-out attack. After he lashes out, whether he continues or stops has little to do with the reaction of the focus (animal or person) of his attack.

Observations

• Eyes are transfixed at the focus of his attack
• Lips are retracted vertically and muzzle is wrinkled to show his teeth. He’d also bark (in a tone that is low but threatening), snarl, or growl.
• Ears are up and have a forward orientation
• Tail is raised high, rigid, and may be flagged
• He may raise his hackles
• Body posture that appears larger with head held high and weight centered over the forelegs in readiness to charge or lunge forward.

4. Curious, Aroused

Curious, anticipatory

The natural response for a dog to any situation is to size it up to ensure safety. Curious body language oozes caution. And the degree to which a dog is curious depends on his confidence level.

You’d typically notice the dog keeping his mouth closed and he may cock his head to one side. Furthermore, he may lift his front paw in anticipation of what would happen next.

Alert

An alert dog isn’t necessary curious, at least not immediately. A dog is curious when he musters the confidence to explore the subject of his curiosity, after a brief moment of being at alert.

Understandably, the demeanor of an alert dog is to be focused and intense.

Observations

• Eyes stare at the reason why he is alert
• Closed mouth, although he may bark or growl
• Raised ears pointing forward
• Erect head and neck
• Rigid, immobile tail may stay in the natural position, raised vertically, or raised over the back
• Piloerection may or may not occur
• Maintains an upright stance and weight is centered on all four legs

Aroused

When a dog gives off an aroused vibe, it is quite easy to confuse it as being alert or excited. For the most part, it isn’t an important distinction to make.

However, one instance where making the distinction is crucial is when the source of the arousal pushes a dog closer to feeling aggressive or frightened. In which case, his body language varies depending on how he feels—fearful, angry, or uncertain.

The reason why a dog is aroused may or may not be noticeable to you. For example, it could be an odor or sound that you can’t sense.

Observations

• Eyes may or may not be transfixed at the reason for his arousal
• Ears may be positioned forward or flattened to the side
• Tail may be held high, in the normal position, or low, depending on prevailing emotional state
• Piloerection is typically a given
• Body posture may be normal or adjusted to appear larger

5. Appeasement, Submissive

Dogs would not always be happy, confident, defensive, or aggressive. Sometimes, they recognize their limitations and know their best option is to stand down and let the other party have his way.

A dog willing to make this concession would display appeasement, deference, displacement, or submissive behavior. In general, while a socially experienced dog and human receiving the signals would tolerate and reciprocate with appropriate signals, a less experienced dog would interpret the signals wrongly and instead reciprocate with inappropriate signals, such as dominant or aggressive behavior.

A dog may either engage in:

• active, or
• passive submission

Active submission observations

• Avert eye gaze away from the other party
• Licking, flicking, or nuzzles of the tongue
• Ears are flattened and held by the sides of the head
• Tail is low or tucked and may be waggling in back and forth motion
• Body posture is adjusted to appear smaller as he hunches over and gets close to the ground
• Some dogs, usually puppies, would also urinate

Passive submission observations

• Avert eye gaze as well
• Might engage in whining
• May lie still or roll over on his back to display his genitalia
• He may also paw at the other party or urinate (usually puppies)

25 Ways to Save Money on Dog Expenses: The Ultimate Guide to Saving on Dog Care, Food, Grooming, Supplies, and Health

Rising costs

Just how much do you spend on your dog?

Take a moment to mull over that question and come up with a number. You may not be sure you want to know, but for many of us, the answer may not necessarily be a number, it could be two words—a lot.

In 2016, the American Pet Products Association (APPA) estimated that U.S. dog owners would spend above $1,500 annually to care for Fido. That figure had been rising since the APPA start compiling stats in 1994. Vets place their estimate closer to $2,000 annually.

If you tallied that over a dog’s lifetime, it amounts to between $20,000 and $40,000, depending on factors like size, amount of food consumed, breed et cetera.

It is well worth it

Don’t take this wrongly. Most of us spare no expense to care for our pets and for good reason. The unconditional companionship and love they give you as well as the special connection you share is priceless.

That, notwithstanding:

We all have (or at least should have) budgets. And if you are consistently entering red territory because of pet care expenses, then you have an understandable reason to want to trim your pet-related spending.

Besides, who wouldn’t want a bargain, which would no doubt free money for other vital expenses?

Doing it right

Thing is, in your attempt to cut spending, you do not want to sacrifice the quality of life of your pooch. That is counter-productive. And you’d have to accept that there are situations when it’d be inevitable to rack up huge bills, such as when things go unexpectedly wrong.

Thankfully, there are several ways to make savings without jeopardizing the health and happiness of your canine. Most of it falls under indulging in preventative care, smarter routine spending, and acquiring better information.

Save from the get go

1. Adopt from a shelter

Sure, you may have your concerns:

• You know virtually nothing about the dog’s heritage or history
• You prefer a purebred dog

But, the plus points are very significant:

• The big one is the heavy price discount you’d get when you adopt a dog. You’d typically not have to foot some of the costly expenses for new dogs.
• You’d be rescuing a pet
• And if you insist on purebreds, one in four shelter dogs are purebreds

If you are on an economy drive, say you are in heavy debt; adoption is an excellent option to take.

2. Buy based on your budget and lifestyle

You cannot base the decision of what dog breed you get entirely on attractiveness. Many people do this, but it can be the harbinger of issues in the future. It is a factor, but there are several other factors to consider. They include:

• likely care costs
• potential health issues
• temperament
• exercise needs

This is the point when you have to engage in a realistic self-talk. You have to aggregate relevant information about care and health expenses of the breed you’re interested in, and ask yourself—Would I be able to maintain optimal health and offer top-quality care to a/an [insert breed here]?

To access this information, you can take advantage of online breed quizzes that use details such as lifestyle, budgeting, time or health constraints, and more to give you a rough idea of what dog breed(s) would fit you best.

3.Draw up a pet budget

You should have a sub-budget for pet-related expenses, for the same reasons you have a budget for personal living expenses. Having a budget would put a kibosh (or at least make it a priority) on impulsive buying and make you think hard about the cost-value ratio of the dog products and services you regularly spend on.

That said, it is good financial practice to have an emergency pet fund. It may or may not be part of your personal emergency fund, but it is necessary to have it. The future is hard to predict, and you have no idea when an unexpected illness may occur, hidden costs may pop, or you may have to indulge in miscellaneous expenses (for instance, hiring a dog walker if you fall sick for an extended period).

The amount you keep is not as relevant as the fact that you have a fund that would provide at least a buffer in the event of an emergency. The last thing you want is to have a financial panic when an emergency is staring you in the face.

4. Research is important

…Not only to decide on the best dog breed to buy or adopt, but also for most pet-related things.

Whether it is a product, service, or practice, you want to know what others, experts think; and you want to be well informed. This is especially true for products. The pet products market is ballooning and manufacturers are working their production lines to bring products that’d make your pockets lighter.

You stand no chance if the marketing speak and ads are all you consume. You’ll find yourself, spending money like it’s going out of style. You should ALWAYS do your due diligence. Catch up on reviews and feedback to ensure you’re spending with your eyes open.

5. Get your dog spayed or neutered

The facts make the pro-spay/-neuter recommendation unarguable. Studies show that spayed and neutered dogs are less likely to develop behavioral issues and certain medical problems (such as an emergency surgery to remove an infected uterus) that are typically associated with huge pet-related spending.

Then there is the advantage of not having to care for a litter of puppies in the future (which by the way addresses the pet overpopulation problem).

Save on food and treats

6. Do some digging for better deals on dog food

It is no surprise that dog owners spend more on food than on anything else pertaining to pet care (be it toys, grooming, et cetera). Consumer Reports got lots of flak for advising pet owners to go cheap, so we’ll let you decide just how much is “too much” to spend on dog food.

You should do your research as always—comparing labels, ingredients, and reading reviews; and realize that if you’ve got a dog with health-related issues then the range of choices is limited.

That said, you could make clear-cut savings from using coupons or taking advantage of discounts, without having to worry about the potential consequences of changing your dog’s diet.

You can:

• search online for coupons—a simple “[product name] + coupon” search query on Google will throw up lots of interesting results;
• go to your fave food company’s webpage; or
• check websites dedicated to outlining coupons, promotions, and freebies for pets—PetSmart, PetCo, My Pet Savings, and Wag.com. Not that you should ignore the coupon heavyweights like Groupon and RetailMeNot.

In fact, if you haven’t signed up for the newsletter of your favorite brand or store, you are missing out on receiving decent (usually time-sensitive) deals you don’t want to pass up.

Additional tips include:

• taking advantage of loyalty and first-time discounts
• ordering online and taking advantage of many companies offering free shipping
• shopping at local pet, livestock, or feed stores rather than at grocery stores

7. Buy in bulk

You shouldn’t only practice this for food, but for other pet needs, like supplies. This is because you’d typically pay less per unit (get more discount) when you buy in bulk.

Even better, you could arrange with a friend or group of friends to combine resources, buy in bulk, and score substantial savings.

8. Prepare dog meals and treats yourself

DIY is a simple unsurprisingly effective trick to save some money. Multiple resources abound online of awesome DIY meal and treat recipes. Sites like PetDIETS and BalanceIT are completely devoted to everything pertaining nutrition and safety of homemade diet and treat recipes.

That said, you should be careful about how you go about DIY meals and treats. A badly prepared meal/treat is worse than cheapo purchased meal/treat. In fact, many experts have seen more cases of pets becoming ill from eating badly prepared home meals than from eating cheapo purchased meals.

To be on the safe side, ensure you are finicky about the nutritional value of your homemade dog meals and treats.

9.Spend smartly on dog supplements

Doggy supplements aren’t just random addendums to sometimes boost the nutritional profile of what owners serve their dogs. It is a full-fledged dog product sub-category given standalone isles in pet stores.

Simply succumbing to the marketing about buying more supplements without talking to your vet about the exact benefits isn’t doing your wallet any good. Certainly, in some cases the importance of supplements is indisputable, but in many cases it isn’t exactly “necessary,” and in some others, probably “harmful.”

Your vet is in the best position to advise you on when supplements are okay for when and when they’re just bloating your already hefty list of dog expenses.

10. Get dog chew bones from a local butcher

Rather than buy bones, visit the local butcher and ask for dog bones. You’ll be pleasantly surprised with what you get for $10. Preferably, go for femur bones (so your dog can access marrow from either end).

And if you visit during the bone cutting process, you could make a polite request for them to cut the bones to a preferred size. Alternatively, you can get leftover beef marrowbones from the meat department at your fave supermarket.

The benefits of giving your dog raw bones are immense, but you should also endeavor to do it safely.

Save on health costs

11. An ounce of prevention is better (and cheaper) than a pound of cure

This apt apothegm is just as appropriate for your canine as it is for you. Preventative measures should form an integral part of how you care for Rover. This would forestall critical health problems down the road—that’d be “uncomfortable” to both you and your dog, give your dog better quality of life, and just as importantly, save you hundreds to thousands of dollars.

In addition to carrying out independent research, you should only stick with a vet who is open minded about giving you valuable advice on how to maintain the health of your dog through preventative measures. These measures touch on a range of factors from diets to grooming.

Regular dental care

Periodontal disease is the commonest disease amongst adult dogs. And the real bummer is that is a preventable health condition.

The cost of tooth extractions can climb to $1,000. This is besides the expensive plaque removal sessions and dental exams that you’ll find yourself paying for way too often than you have to. Furthermore, studies identify a relationship between poor oral health and several serious health conditions (such as heart disease) in dogs.

There is no sugarcoating it. If you aren’t taking good dental care of your dog, you’re implicitly ruining his health. Home dental care is inexpensive—prices for dog toothbrush kits start at $5.

You should learn how to brush your dog’s teeth properly, and then make certain that you do so consistently—several times a week for younger pets and once a day for older pets. As part of your annual health visit to the vet for checks, endeavor to have a professional clean.

Avoid obesity

It isn’t great for humans, it isn’t great for dogs. Maintaining a healthy lifestyle for and giving appropriate nutrition to your part is not optional. In 2016, 54% of all dogs in the U.S. were obese, according to the Association for Pet Obesity Prevention. That’s an ugly stat, it is even uglier when one considers that the rate of dog obesity jumped by 10 percentage points in 7 years (it was 44% in 2009).

Excessively feeding your dog might feel like you’re being loving and caring, but it also holds the unintended consequence of reducing the quality of life later in your dog’s lifetime. Overweight and obesity places a dog, like humans, at increased risk of serious health conditions, ranging from arthritis to cancer.

By insisting on a healthy lifestyle and preventing obesity, you are:

• saving money at the moment due to lower dog feeding expense
• avoiding the discomfort to your dog and yourself when he has to suffer challenging health conditions and you having to make multiple trips to the vet
• saving money in the long run that you wouldn’t have to spend on huge vet and med bills

Commit to an annual health check

A widely acknowledged clinical truth is that early detection and diagnosis is crucial for the prevention, management, and treatment of diseases. This is why you should religiously follow an annual health schedule to screen or check your dog comprehensively.

For older dogs or dogs with a chronic health condition, the frequency of checks should increase to a semiannual schedule.

In terms of vaccination, giving your dog regular, repeated vaccines are unnecessary. Rather carry out titer testing (vaccine titers) to ascertain the level of immunity of your dog, rather than just repeatedly pumping him full of vaccines when he is in all likelihood already immune.

12. Dog-proof your home

Dogs will be dogs and that often means they’d explore and munch on anything in sight, with particular preference for your furniture, upholstery, belongings, and several expensive things you wouldn’t want to replace until you have a good reason to.

Spending on replacements is but one reason to be concerned, you may also find yourself racking a huge vet bill from vet visits or surgeries after your dog sends into his alimentary canal toxic substances that shouldn’t be in there.

Dog-proofing your house saves you the stress and money associated with future preventable mishaps. Aside keeping typical toxic substances like antifreeze, chocolate, and plants out of reach, some other pet-proofing tips include:

• Not leaving flat and curling irons “on” when exiting a room
• Keeping pill (including cold medication, vitamins, and painkillers) bottles out of reach as dogs can open many childproof bottles
• Being careful with having lit candles at reachable distances from your pet
• Keeping cleaning supplies out of reach

13.Use technology to keep up

The app industry is firing on all cylinders, and the pet sector isn’t take a back seat. Currently, several apps exist on dominant mobile platforms that make dog care easier.

Now, using apps you can keep track of health needs and information, find out the best walking routes around you, track your dog’s location, maintain a well-ordered schedule so you never miss a flea treatment or forget a vet appointment again, et cetera.

Beyond apps and the mobile ecosystem, you can test your dog’s DNA to have a firm idea of what conditions your pup might likely develop, and adopt preventative measures.

14. Carefully choose a vet

This is a no-brainer, but many dog owners do not necessarily compare local vet clinics before selecting a vet. You want a vet you can comfortably relate with and can provide useful preventative tips and health advice.

After choosing a vet, make certain that s/he is your go-to vet. It is better to develop a long-standing relationship with a vet who’d get to know your dog in toto. In addition, you may even score savings as time progress as vets typically give long-term patients higher discounts.

15. Take advantage of vet short-term promotions

All through the year, vets typically offer several short-term promotions on routine treatments, such as parasite control. You may also want to look out for discounted dental care during National Pet Dental Health Month every February and mobile rabies clinics during each summer.

Furthermore, some vet clinics offer free nurse consultations, so that billing only commences when your dog requires actual treatment or referral to the vet.

16.Take advantage of discounts from vet colleges

You may not like the sound of an unlicensed person handling your pet’s health issue.

But student vets need real life case studies, have the requisite knowledge, and are sufficiently equipped to perform routine procedures like health checks, vaccinations, and health checks.

You’d typically make hefty savings if you take advantage of discounted treatments offered by your local veterinary college.

17. Take advantage of discounts from dog charities and not-for-profit services

Several charities and trust funds would help with routine fund treatment and vet bills for peculiar health conditions in dogs and cats. Breed-specific charities also do their bit by offering financial support for emergency treatment.

Furthermore, you can relate with your local ASPCA (RSPCA in the UK), Humane Society, or rescue shelter to inquire about discounted services. The HumaneSociety and PetMD have plenty of resources and tips on how to get affordable vet care and where to look for free or cheap veterinary clinics.

You could do an independent research by starting with a quick Google search using the “free vet care [insert city here]” string.

Endeavor to do your research before you actually need help. Have the sites and phone numbers penned on a list, so you can quickly establish contact when the need arises.

18. Buy pet insurance

The concept of pet insurance is laudable, after all, estimates point that 92% of all pets may have an emergency during their lifetime. And for some dog owners, buying pet insurance is justifiable.

But:

This isn’t true for everyone. Sure, you can insure your pup while he’s young to keep premiums low, but coverage choices and higher premiums for “high-risk” dog breeds don’t exactly make pet insurance a one-size-fits-all solution.

Alternatively, you may want to consider setting up an emergency fund for your pet. The amount saved wouldn’t always cover the entire emergency costs, but you wouldn’t have to worry about coverage and other insurance policies. At the very least, it’d offset part of the cost.

19. Spend smartly on prescriptions

So, back in 2010/2011, vets received a hard knock for their seemingly outrageous markups. Consumer Reports placed markup estimates in the US as high as 100% to 160%, while DailyMail placed estimates in the UK as high as 500%.

Thankfully, the uproar did lead to long-lasting changes in vet pricing schemes, but the practice of seeking out better deals on meds didn’t go out of fashion. To make considerable savings on meds, ask for a generic prescription and make your purchase at a pet store or online pharmacy.

We recommend that you buy from a Vet-VIPPS accredited pharmacy when buying prescriptions online, as they comply with state and federal quality assurance and licensing requirements, which is a fancy way of saying they would not scam you.

Save on general dog supplies

20. Quality over lowest prices

Everyone loves a bargain. But it shouldn’t be to a penny wise and pound foolish level. Excessive focus on prices can be detrimental in the long run, as long-term expenses cancel out short-term gains.

This principle is applicable to virtually all dog supplies, including training supplies, grooming tools, and general pet accessories (such as collars and leashes).

Sure, you should have and stay within your budget as a matter of financial discipline, but endeavor to buy the highest quality, most durable product within your preferred price range.

21.Make dog toys yourself

I’ll put it out there. Some dog toys just aren’t worth the price tag emblazoned on them. And that’s why you should seriously consider making your dog’s toys yourself. It isn’t prohibitively difficult and you only need to make about 5 to 10 in total.

The reason is that dogs typically have favorites, and would consistently prefer them to alternatives.

Furthermore, you should make certain to rotate his toys—he shouldn’t have access to all of them at any point in time. Keep some tucked away and rotate every week or bi-weekly, so they always appear “new” to him.

Additional tips

• If you insist on buying toys, choose products that are the most indestructible (reviews and customer feedback would come in handy)
• Take your dog when next you go to a garage sale, flea market, or thrift shop. In addition to getting bargains, you could also buy stuffed animals for your pup if he is a shredder (likes to tear things up).

22. Shop online

Everyone has his or her respective takeaways from the online versus offline shopping dogfight. But if you’re interested in making substantial savings while shopping, you know what camp to pitch your tent with.

Online shops like Amazon do not have the traditional overheads of brick-and-mortar stores and can afford to offer you cheaper prices, quick and many times free delivery (especially with Amazon Prime), and a no-hassle refund policy.

Of course, nothing truly beats seeing and feeling things in person at a local pet store, but when you have to buy the product again, a couple of taps on your smartphone is all that is required. You can also take advantage of the ultra-valuable review system when researching products.

23. Consider used items

Earlier, we’ve talked about getting used items at garage sales and flea markets. But those are not the only places where you can get used items—you can check out online sources like eBay, Craigslist, et cetera.

24. Be proactive about your dog bringing in dirt from the outdoors

Go the extra mile to wipe your dog’s paws before he goes indoors after spending time outside. You’ll make savings on household—floor, carpet, and upholstery—cleaning and cleaning supplies.

25. Save on professional services

Whether it is grooming, bathing, or walking your dog; you can learn to do them yourself. It’d take some commitment and patience but you’d eventually get the hang of it.

And even if you can’t roll your sleeves and get in on some DIY action because of practicality reasons (such as advanced dog training) or lack of time; spending smartly is still an acceptable route to go.

Take advantage of discounts

Several dog salons reward regular customers with discounts and free services. You may even buy grooming sessions in blocks to get such rewards. Note that you’d often have to inquire about such discounts as they are not typically advertised.

Apprentice groomers and intending pros just starting out would also often offer discounts. Craigslist and Reddit are good places to scour for beginner groomers around you. You should always exercise care when dealing with strangers.

Scour coupon sites

Coupon sites are like the Mecca of deals. You can get coupons for services in your area. Endeavor to sign up to get alerts for deals around you.

Know your options

Do not simply let your groomer go to town on your dog. It’d typically mean a bunch of services that are not needed, which would inflate your bill.

For example if you’ve given Fide a brush or clipped his nails, then let your dog groomer know you’ve prepared your dog for the session and certain services shouldn’t be part of the session (or inform him/her of the exact services your dog requires).

You should also request for a price list, so you can make an informed decision.

A cut doesn’t have to be expensive

Getting a cut doesn’t have to always be a costly affair. A cut such as a “field” cut can be functional and low-cost.

Use a self-service dog wash

A self-service dog wash has purpose-built washing and drying facilities, which you can use to bathe your dog at a price that is a fraction of what you’d pay if you were to visit a groomer.

Even better, there is the added benefit that you do not have to worry about clogging your bath with dog hair.

 

 

A Simple but Effective Guide to Make Your Dog Stop Biting

Dogs and puppies have a natural tendency to bite and chew. They usually also prefer interacting with objects with their teeth rather than their paws.

While this “natural” behavior can seem cute at the beginning, especially if you have a puppy or the “bites” are still very gentle, it may eventually grow to a point where it becomes a serious problem. And this is precisely why you need to act before things get that worse. You will also be much better off starting early, as the process will be a lot easier and smoother than when biting becomes an almost irrevocable part of your dog’s behavior.

With that said, let’s cut to the chase and take a look at few simple but highly effective ways of making your dog or puppy give up on its biting habit for good.

Associate Biting with Pain

When two dogs play, they tend to mouth each other; but there’s nothing unusual about it. It’s a common part of their playing activity.

However, whenever one of them ends up biting the other, the dog getting bitten would yelp, making the biting dog realize that it has done something wrong. And over time, a dog would probably easily be able to understand that whenever they bite another dog and it yelps, it’s likely because it has been hurt by their bite.

This realization and understanding that your dog may already be having somewhere stored in his memory is something you can use to your advantage here. Sure, it doesn’t know that it needs to think in the

same way while playing with a human, but making your dog learn that certainly wouldn’t turn out to be an extremely difficult task.

Whenever your dog ends up biting you, you should make your hand go limp, while also making a yelping sound. However, you should be careful not to take your hand off his mouth in a sudden manner, as it may make him think that you’re just playing with him and that he’s simply supposed to chase your hand.

If the yelping doesn’t work for you, you can resort to a loud sound that helps you express your “pain.” Be careful not to frighten your dog, though; but if you do, you should take your cries of pain down a notch.

After performing these actions, you should also be ignoring your pet for about half a minute before going back to playing with him. Similarly, you wouldn’t want to repeat this process more than twice in fifteen minutes. But if you feel the need to do so, you should simply be having a time out.

This will help the dog understand that while gentle play can go on for long, rough play will make you stop playing with him far more quickly.

Teaching Appropriate Chewing

Teaching your dog what is okay to chew and what is not can go a long way in making him give up his habit of biting people. To do this, you would need a few good, tempting chewing dog toys to begin with.

Whenever the dog tries to go for your hand or any other part of your body, just dodge his “attack” and throw a chewing toy his way. If he ends up satisfying his thirst for chewing using the toy, praise him and give him a good treat. Make sure the dog knows that he will be rewarded with a treat if he goes with the appropriate chewing option as soon as you give him a chewing toy to engage himself with.

Another way of satisfying your dog’s chewing desires is to play a game such as tug-of-war with him. However, you must be careful not to let the aggression in him come out while playing. In order to use this method effectively, you would want to teach your dog commands such as “leave it” or “let go.”

Have “Distractions” Handy

Dogs tend to have a habit of not only mouthing people, but also other things in their environment. And to prevent your dog from following this typical dog behavior, you should have a few interesting things handy that will grab his attention away from the other things in his environment that he finds very tempting to chew.

Chew toys are obviously a great option, but those “treat” toys that force dogs into doing some serious thinking to get the treat can really keep them engaged as well.

Encouraging Positive Chewing Action

Some dogs develop a habit of biting at people’s feet or ankles. This is something you’re very likely to come across if you own a large, herding dog.

A good way to deal with this is to have a chew toy in your pocket when you’re at the home with your dog. Whenever he comes after your ankles or feet, you need to stop moving completely and wave the chew toy around and make him go for it instead. When he does, you can also reward him with a treat.

Even if you don’t have a chew toy with you when your dog bites you, you can simply stop moving. When the dog finally takes his teeth off your feet, praise him and offer him a treat or toy. This is simply a way to encourage his positive action.

Important Precautions to take:

• Avoid using your fingers or toes while being playful with your dog, as it can encourage him to get into its biting mode and bite them.
• Try to work on building a strong bond between your dog and his human family. This will help you get in a much better position to make him play with you the way you want, rather than not playing with you at all. After all, your goal is to eventually make your dog play in an appropriate manner, and not do away with playing altogether.
• Absolutely stay away from all kinds of direct punishments. Slapping or hitting your dog when he bites you playfully can cause some serious damage to your owner-pet relationship. Your dog may grow afraid of you, which, in turn, may be followed by a bunch of other problems. In addition to that, such punishments may also incite real aggression in your dog, including a tendency to bite harder.

A Man’s Best Friend

Man and canine get along so well that it almost seems like it was meant to be. For hundreds and hundreds of years, we’ve been practicing the domestication of dogs for hunting, herding, guarding and most typically for companionship. To date there is yet a challenger to the title of  “man’s best friend”.

Owning a dog is more than just feeding and walking it. Being a dog owner means you’ll be spending a lot of time together, be it going on adventurous hikes, gathering and play-times with other dog owners, working on chores in the farm, or maybe just a regular walk in the park, whatever it may be, these are the experiences that strengthens the bond between the owner and his dog.

As you spend more time with your pal, you’ll observe that they have strong feelings – just like we do. You’ll notice their favorite treats, and the things that fill them with joy , or those that make them sad. Compared to these temperaments, a  dog’s fear and anxiety may be harder to observe and are thus often overlooked by the owner.. Fear and anxiety can occur at any time, with or without any warning. While not every dog owner will have to deal with this, it’s something that shouldn’t be ignored.

Although there are many funny stories of dogs being scared of the toaster, microwave oven or the vacuum cleaner, some dogs do experience persistent fear that affects the lives of both the dog and the owner.

 

How Can I Tell if My Dog is Scared or Anxious?

Symptoms of a dog being scared and anxious range from being mild to severe. Here is a guideline to help you determine if what your dog is experiencing fear:

Mild Signs

• Trembling – They may be shaking or seem to have a tremor.
• Tail tucking – This is when a dog tucks its tail down in between its hind legs.
• Ear pinning – When the ears are pinned back and downwards
• Withdrawal – Your dog may seem to take a step back, and detached from the situation.
• Hiding or (passive) escaping behavior– A dog that is scared may hide behind you or something else to try and avoid its fears.
• Reduced activity – Dogs may stop suddenly or seem to freeze when in a stressful situation.

 

Signs of Panic

• Active escaping behavior – Running away is a clear sign of a dog in panic.
• Activity that seems out-of-context and potentially injurious to him/herself or others – This can include biting, jumping, etc. This may be potentially dangerous for larger dog breeds.

 

Signs of Excessive / Unhealthy Stress

• Diarrhea – Loose stools is something you should take seriously, whether or not your dog is
• Vomiting – Throwing up is also a serious sign and all measures should be taken to get your dog in a safe, comfortable environment.
• Excessive barking and whining – If it’s not the mail man and they don’t have to pee, then it might be something more serious.
• Panting – Quick and shallow breathing for no reason can be an indication of fear or anxiety.
• Digging – They may not be digging necessarily, but more-so doing a digging motion.
• Chewing – Dogs do like to chew, but chewing too much isn’t a good thing.
• Shedding – Just like humans, dogs can lose hair if they’re scared too often.
• Leash biting – This could be a way to show you they don’t want to go near something they may be afraid of.
• Sweaty paws – Again, this is a reaction that humans also get when they’re scared or under
• Foam drool – You ever notice an aggressive dog with foamy drool? This can be a sign they are actually scared rather than mad.
• Red eyes – Because the heart rate increases when scared or stressed, the increased blood flow can make a dog’s eyes appear to be red.
• Tense muscles – If your dog seems stiff, or even frozen, this can indicate they have tense
• Excessive tail wagging – A dog that’s wagging his or her tail isn’t always happy, so be aware of what’s going on and determine whether or not your dog is actually happy, or
• Aggressive behavior – Anywhere from biting, growling, shoving, running, etc . If your dog happens to growl in a particular situation, a dead give-away that it is doing so out of fear is if its stance is with the head lower than the back.

Keep in mind that some of the symptoms of canine anxiety and fear may be observed in stressed dogs as well. Although some form of stress is perfectly normal for a dog, excessive or severe cases would certainly require veterinary attention.

Why Do Dogs Get Scared?

Fear in dogs is caused by a number of reasons. The fear or phobia your dog is experiencing could be caused by one, or a combination of the following:

They’re Still Young / Lack of Experience

Puppies and younger dogs can be fearful of things they are unsure of. Helping your dog experience new things while they are still young is a great way to help your dog develop a sense of confidence. It’s important to let your pup explore a bit, especially before 14 weeks of age.

They’re Getting Older

It’s pretty common for a dog that’s getting older to start developing behavioral problems, which include the development of  phobias and anxiety as a result of hormonal changes.

Because of Previous Events that Occurred

Most of the things dogs find fearful is from past experience. Some dogs may have been attacked by other dogs, abused by previous owners or abandoned. These emotional scares often lead to fear and anxiety.

It’s in Their Nature

Sometimes, being scared is wired in your dog (breed). We see this in people as well. While some dogs are outdoing, some are extremely shy. Some dogs don’t seem to be afraid of anything, while others appearto be overwhelmed with the world. Regardless, fear and anxiety can be overcome with understanding, patience and love.

They Might be Sick or Injured

If you find your dog getting scared for seemingly no reason, there could be either a sickness or injury you are unaware of. This is a good time to take a trip to the vet to figure out what the root of the problem is before it’s too late. You wouldn’t want your pal to have a brain or thyroid disease you weren’t aware of.

 

Common Fears Dogs Have

There are several common fears that a dog may have. The ones we are about to go over are some of the most commonly experienced fears. If you find your dog has one of these, then know you are not the only one. In fact, most dogs will have a slight fear of at least one of these things at a certain point in time.

1. Fear of Other Dogs

A dog that fears other dogs could have either not been around enough dogs when they were a puppy, or they might have been attacked by a dog previously. Being attacked is an extremely traumatic experience and it can be deteriorating for your dog’s self-esteem. When you’re around other dogs with your dog, stay calm and keep your voice calm. The best thing to do is desensitize, which we will go over later on.

2. Fear of New People

Dogs who have been sheltered a lot when they were pups can lead to fear and anxiety when it comes to being around new people. This can also be the case if there was abuse from a previous owner. Try not to have your dog around too many people at once and introduce him or her slowly to your friends. Don’t force them to interact, either. Show them this is someone you trust and someone they can trust too.

3. Fear of Riding in the Car

Believe it or not, it’s not unheard of for a dog to have a phobia of car rides. Some dogs get car sick in the car, making them nauseous or to the point of vomiting. Another reason this phobia exists is that they simply aren’t used to it. The feeling of a car moving and watching things pass by can be overwhelming for a hound.

If it’s not car sickness or being new to the feeling of car rides that’s making your dog uneasy, then it might just be an association with a negative experience. A dog might remember that their trip to the vet was made in a car. Another possibility is that they might have been in an accident before, both in or outside of a car, and are scared that it may happen again.

4. Fear of Loud Noises

One of the most common fears people will find in their dog is their fear of loud, sudden noises, such as thunder or the vacuum cleaner. These noises can result in your dog panicking within a matter of seconds. Fortunately these can be easily alleviated by having someone in the family play with them during a thunderstorm or while you vacuum. There is also a product called the ThunderShirt, which you can find on Amazon.

5. Fear of Separation

Separation anxiety is most common in puppies. Common signs are being clingy, hyperactive, excessive barking, destroying objects, urinating on the floor, defecating inappropriately (even diarrhea), excess saliva, over and under-eating, being depressed or aggressive, etc. Sometimes these signs show as soon as you leave, while others will take time to kick in.

6. Fear of Confinement

What may be taken as a fear of separation, might just be a fear of confinement. Dogs like to have their own little cozy spot to hang out and know it’s their own. Something as simple as having several dog blankets and floor mats around your home can help your dog feel more comfortable while you are gone. Another thing that helps is leaving some interesting and engaging dog toys for your dog to play with while you are out and about. Put them away while you are home so they don’t become bored of it.

7. Fear of Water

You might think that only cats are scared of water. But dogs can develop a fear or phobia of water as well. This may be due to a previously bad experience with water, or simply because they are unfamiliar with it. A good thing to do is start with shallow water and maybe even use treats as bait to get them in the water.

8. Fear of Their Owner

It is possible for a dog to be afraid of its owner! This is particularly common when you and your dog are fairly new to each other. The thing is, you may be completely unaware of it. Such fear may be a result ofsome changes you’ve made that your dog is uncomfortable with. Things like a new table, furniture arrangement, or even new guests can spook your pooch. Another thing is not getting enough personal space. While you or your family members may be trying to please and love your dog, sometimes the love can be intimidating.

If you notice that you’re using your body language to show your stress, then your dog picks up on that instantly. They may even think you’re feeling upset because of them. When you get home from work upset, try to make it a point to approach your dog calmly and happily, so they understand that your negative mood isn’t their fault.

 

Take Note of Your Dog’s Fears

It is important to list down the stuffs that spooks your dog. In addition, make it a point to understand just how scared your dog is of each of their fears. While it is entirely possible for a dog to learn to overcome its fears, sometimes your dog may have difficulties dealing with a particular phobia. When there is a strong display of fear or aggression (running away, growling, or even biting), then you know this should be a fear that is best limited and avoided, especially in public places.

In order to help your dog overcome fears, it’s important to understand the threshold of each fear. With that knowledge, you can better control your dog’s environment, as well as easier manage their behavior during stressful situations. There is no clear-shot way to help a dog overcome it’s fears. There are, however, a few things you can do that can help.

 

How to Overcome Dog Fears and Phobias

Like most things in life, there is more than one way to approach the solution. Helping your dog overcome his or her fears and phobias doesn’t always work 100%, meaning that you might be able to help this fear become more tolerable, but your dog may still have a negative reaction to it. On the other hand, there are many cases where dog owners are successful in helping their dog get over their phobia(s), and this means your dog potentially can too!

Now that you are aware of your dog’s fear(s), helping your dog overcome it relies on you. You’ll need to develop a structure. There are things you need to figure out such as what you are going to do when your dog is scared, what you should do to help your dog understand there is nothing to be scared of. We will now go over some ways to help your dog overcome fears and phobias.

First Thing’s First, Don’t Reward the Fearfulness

Dogs are quite simple; they consider any kind of affection to be a reward. So when you find your dog is fearful or scared, the last thing you should do is comfort them because this will only reinforce their feelings. What you need to do is be your dog’s leader. This stems from their nature to follow the leader of the pack. This is called allelomimetic behavior, aka imitating. This will first require the mindset of “surrendering” of your dog.

In order to do this, we must remain assertive, yet calm, even if your dog is displaying fear. The attitude and vibes you put out will be instinctively picked up by your dog, and they will better understand that there is nothing to be afraid of.

If you are calm and assertive but your dog is still seeming scared, then show with actions that you are their leader, and everything is okay. Whatever you do, do not start to feel anxious or scared about your dog’s behavior, as this will only make matters worse. It’s really not so hard, and once your dog feels your confidence, they’ll surrender to your lead easily.

Socialization

Prevention is better than cure. Phobia and anxiety issues can be minimized or curbed altogether if you socialise your dog early in its life. The term socialization is defined as the process a dog, usually a puppy, goes through to experience all sorts of people, situations, and places to become familiar with them. It is extremely important to socialize your dog when it is still young, with the most important period being from 0-14 weeks of age, as well as between 5 and 8 months of age. What you need to do is expose your dog to all sorts of people, from old to young, men and women, people who have facial hair and glasses, people wearing hats, etc.

If your dog is not properly socialized, then it will be much harder for them to deal with self-esteem issues and unknown situations. Socialization doesn’t only have to happen while a dog is a puppy. In fact, it’s completely possible to help socialize a fully grown and developed dog. Keep in mind that they won’t be as reliable as a dog that was well socialized, and you need to approach it much differently.

Helping your older dog socialize means making an effort to go outside. When you go to a dog park, allow your dog to watch other dogs and examine their behavior, but don’t let them go in just yet. When a dog comes near the dog park fence, give your dog a treat so they associate positivity with other dogs. If they happen to act aggressively, then move them away until they calm down.

If you’re walking outside with your dog, it’s best to not tug and yell at your dog, but instead distract and get the attention on you to avoid a bad encounter. Another thing to try is dog obedience class. This will help expose your dog to other dogs, as well as other humans in a safe area. To help your dog get used to other people and dogs, it’s best to introduce them slowly into their lives, rather than as much, and as soon as possible. When your dog goes through each new experience, praise good behavior with treats and affection so they can learn easier that these situations are safe.

If your dog happens to be running away from you, then it’s best to not force the interaction, but instead ignore your dog. When they come out to see what you’re doing, reward with a treat to let them know you’re their friend. The best thing for you to do is just be calm and your dog will follow your lead eventually.

Desensitizing

Desensitizing is defined as rendering a particular stimulant less sensitive. Desensitizing your dog can be done through a couple of methods – repetition, modification and counter/conditioning, as described below:

Repetition: Once you understand what object or situation is scary to your dog, then you need to figure out a way to have it happen, or have your dog exposed to it when you need to. For instance, if your dog is scared of the vacuum cleaner, put it somewhere they can access it, and they will slowly become used to seeing it and how it smells. Bring your dog to it and give him or her approval when they willingly go near it. Of course, don’t turn it on while doing this and it’s probably best to have them on a leash for extra security on their end.

Don’t forget to offer treats as your dog becomes familiar with the feared object. When they become relaxed around the machine, turn it on or perform whatever action it is your dog is afraid of. Don’t force your dog to go near the object, but instead allow them to simply observe from a distance. Reassure with praise and treats. Doing this several times will help greatly with your dog overcoming their fear.

Modification and Counter/Conditioning: By introducing new patterns of thought while around a feared object is another desensitizing practice you can perform. Something like playing with your dog during a thunderstorm can help decrease their fear of storms. If your dog is scared of the man of the house, have them stand near while you bond with and instruct your dog. If needed, muzzle your dog. Ask them to do tricks and praise with treats when they perform correctly.

The key here is to help your dog associate things they are afraid of with positivity and ensure that there is nothing for them to be afraid of. Another thing you can try is when your dog does happen to become fearful during this practice, you can divert by negotiating scary situations with a command or trick they are comfortable doing. You can also negotiate the scary situation by showing, not giving, your dog a treat that is in your hand. As soon as your dog becomes calm and listens to your command, reward with a treat.

What NOT to Do: When you’re practicing desensitizing exercises with your dog, it is important to not yell at your dog or punish them if they are not performing according to your expectations. This will only worsen a situation As your dog may end up associating their feared object with more negativity.

Getting Professional Help

Sometimes the best thing to do is get professional help for your dog. You might know what is bothering them, but perhaps not the best methods to handle the problem. Although patience and care may help your dog overcome mild fears or anxiety, severe cases would definitely be better handled by professionals who have more experience working with different breeds of dogs.

How to Train a Dominant Dog

The setting is perfect.

It is a clear, sunny day in the summer. And you decide to take a nice walk with your pooch, because you know, it’s fun and immensely beneficial to your mental and physical health.

You are a couple of minutes into your walk, and you say to yourself “what could possibly go wrong?”

But no sooner had you finish that sentence did you notice an energetic dog canter in your direction.

“Oh no!” you gasp. This can’t be happening.

You know deep down, that it’d be a disaster if that dog came too close to your dog. And to avoid this, you make a split-second decision to careen off before the fireworks go off.

But, you’re prolly too late as you notice your dog already pulling with all its might, getting ready to slug it out with a dog he only just saw seconds ago.

For some dog owners, this a story that is exact or at least close to what they’ve experienced with their dogs. Sure, you know your dog needs the activity and outdoor experience and you undoubtedly enjoy your walk, but avoiding these conflict situations seems to be the practical play.

Some owners have similar experiences but in fundamentally different scenarios.

• Your dog would lash out at strangers at the first chance it gets
• You can’t touch your dog in a certain way, else it’ll snarl at you
• He has made his own rules, and you find yourself having to play ball after unsuccessfully attempting to change same rules severally

For most pet dog owners, one word explains all of these scenarios: DOMINANCE.

But:

It is not so clear-cut

Among dog behaviorists, there are two camps. One camp likes to throw around the “dominance” word as many times as possible to rationalize most unruly dog behaviors. The opposing camp, however, prefers not to use the “dominant dog” label, as an explanation for any shoddy dog behavior.
To be fair to both camps, the concept of dominance is factual, but using one buzzword in a one-size-fits-all approach isn’t helpful.

The real deal lies somewhere in the middle.

The issue with syntax

First off: it is necessary to tackle the elephant in the room.

The words dominance, aggression, dominance aggression, submission, resource protection/guarding, and other related words on some level and in certain situations have merit in their application to dog behaviors.

But:

Many times the presentation (in simple terms, how they are used) is inaccurate.

For example, a common theme amongst several lay owners and handlers is that a dog that exhibits dominance is a charming, persistent dog with attitude if things do not go his way. And then comparisons are made to the social structure of wolves to explain this notion.

Except that, wolves and domestic dogs are not the same species, as opposed to the heavily romanticized and popular anecdote. Dogs are not as socialized as wolves are, and your fido isn’t instinctively trying to be your overlord or being a pack leader.

In fact, amongst animal groups with established dominant members, advanced studies show that dominant members often assert their influence (or dominance if you will) without using force (aggression).

Dominance is not the only factor at play

In general, in a realistic multi-dog setting, not all dogs are equal. There is a social hierarchy.

But:

The dynamics of the hierarchy are NOT fixed. It is fluid and relative.
For example, while one dog may place high value on a food resource and indeed get primary access to same resource, another dog may place similar high value on and by extension control over a preferred sleeping location.
Either dog would show classic signs of dominance with respect to the resource they prioritize and to which they have primary access. And as long as both dogs accept each other’s claim, there would be no conflict. As you’d expect, when both dogs place equal value on a resource, then all hell will break lose.
Still, aggression in dogs plays out in different ways and under different circumstances. It could be dog-to-dog, dog-to-human, general disobedience, or something else. And it may not be because of dominance. It could be because of fear, stress, anxiety, curiosity, play, boredom, et cetera.

Which is why it is important to:

Keep an open mind

Because each of any dog’s behavioral issues is unique and complex. You have to observe closely, replay events chronologically, identify triggers, and understand the behavior in detail.

It may not constitute the primary basis to determine the best course of action to take (as you’d soon find out), but it’d be invaluable in many cases and help in keeping track of progress.

A dog’s temperament: Is your dog dominant?

In recent times, research has shown the personality dimension of dogs to be relatively consistent over time.

So is your dog a dominant dog, in a way that contrasts with the personality of other dogs?

Probably not.

For starters, a dog does not exhibit dominance all the time or in all situations. Alas, you know you have a special case if your dog is fiery come rain or shine. Such instances are rare and not the norm.

The average dog that exhibits what is arguably dominant and/or aggressive behavior quite often picks his fights. It may be exclusively on home turf, when owners are around, against other dogs while being innocuous to humans, or some other scenario.

Of course, the breed and erstwhile training would play a role in how a dog turns out; however, the pattern doesn’t deviate from the norm. A dog would show greater dominance/aggression in certain situations, while being less assertive/more submissive in other situations.

This understanding underlies the solution to resolving most unruly canine behaviors:

Step up to take charge

Surprisingly, both camps on the dog behavior divide agree on this basic principle. However, they unsurprisingly disagree on the best approach.

You already get why commonly understood lexicon like pack, pack leader, pecking order, alpha, alpha dog, top dog, aren’t fitting labels.

Nonetheless, the key to resolving most behavioral issues that have the semblance of dominance aggression in dogs is to have a comprehensive review of the roles of you and your dog in the relationship that you both share.

Regardless of the deep affection you have for your dog and the bold, apparent loyalty your dog has for you, the defining roles in your owner-pet relationship is that of you being a humane, fair authority figure and your dog being a trusted companion.

In this rational arrangement, you make the rules and your dog abides by them, you lead and he follows, you throw a ball and he dashes off to get it.

The bottom line is that you have to wean your dog off its bad behavior. And you do not have to become harsh, too physical, or excessively vocal, as those actions may worsen the situation. You only have to follow the guidelines shared in the next section, which is mainly predicated on the concept of using rewards to enforce good behavior and encourage good communication between you and your pet.

How to Deal with Dominance in Dogs

1. Be calm but assertive
The first step is to work on yourself. You want to inculcate good behavior in your dog and to do so, you need to be in the right frame of mind and give off the right vibe.

You have to be calm, but decisive, even when you want to pull your hair out in frustration after a momentary relapse by your dog. Appearing uncertain or adopting a derisive posture may likely increase the level of stress of your dog, which may cause him to behave in a more erratic fashion.

2. Set and enforce ground rules, limitations, & boundaries

Safety first

Yea, some dogs bite their owners, and it isn’t a pretty sight.

Some estimates put the percentage at about 15% of dog owners being caught in the jaws of their canines (instead of a burglar). Sure, this is not a majority by a long shot, but the number is significant.

As you are about to rein in on the unruly behavior of Fido, you want things to go as smoothly as possible. Dogs are intelligent and have fantastic senses, but you are smarter.

And the smart thing to do is to avoid any situation that would trigger a battle.

After noting this, you would want to:

Take control of all important resources…

And do so smartly. Which means when furniture is off bounds, you may deny access to the room, barricade with uncomfortable books, or booby trap with the electrostatically charged Scatmat.

A leash would work too, but remember that when you take the leash, do so nonchalantly and blandly, then walk away dispassionately. If he follows you as intended, reward with a treat, because that’s a behavior you want him to repeat consistently.

An important resource is anything that Rover likes, ranging from toys, food, to playtime, and petting. He no longer gets whatever he wants on a whim, he’s had that opportunity and he blew it.

Now, you ration, and it should begin to sink in that access to any resource he desires is a privilege and not a right. And if he wants to get access, he should be responsive, mild-mannered, and well-behaved.

Complement this by:

Enacting limitations and rules
For the next couple of days or week, your canine belongs at your side or tethered to a tie down whenever others are with him in the house. This is as much as to enforce discipline as to keep him away from situations where he gets riled up.

You should also set some basic ground rules, such as:

• He doesn’t get food if he is aggressive or engaging in resource guarding
• He cannot block access-ways, such as doorways
• He must not dash ahead of you when you both get to a doorway—he should follow your lead

3. Establish the concept of permission and reward good behavior

Just as important as establishing rules, limitations, and boundaries is inculcating the concept of taking permission before going after or getting something he wants.

A common device to use is getting him to sit still and look at you politely before you give him his toy, let him out the door, or even give him a treat. You want to establish a chemistry that has order and predictability.

This will play down the urge to guard or get aggressive about a resource; because he knows, he wouldn’t get anything by being assertive anymore. But by being calm, submissive, and more importantly by politely seeking permission.

And when he behaves accordingly, do well to reward him with a treat and/or a pat. A reward is a positive feedback mechanism that encourages him to repeat desirable actions/behaviors.

4. Take advantage of meal time

Extend your rules to meals.

He should be calm, sit, and be patient for a few seconds (any interval within the 10 to 30 seconds window is okay) before you give him permission to eat.

Treats and tidbits shouldn’t be given freely anymore. Your dog should earn them, including praise and enjoyable interactive contact such as playing and petting; after replicating behaviors you want.

5. Regulate affection

This can potentially be a dicey, challenging step, because we instinctively want to shower our dogs with lots of affection.

But as hard as it may appear, you have to dole out affection on your terms. Which implies that if your dog is one to insist and push for affection, then you can use this as a medium to discipline your dog, by having him earn your attention. For example, this could be by having him do a brief down-stay or sit-stay first.

However, if your dog is more solitary and you tend to be the one initiating physical interaction, then you would want to hold off and ignore him. When he desires attention, he’d come to you, do the mandatory sit-stay, before getting some ‘we’ time with you.

6. React appropriately

Now, the undeniable fact is that in your course to enforce better behavior, there’ll be bumps along the road. At some point, your dog would prolly do things that’d question the efficacy of your therapy.

But:

How you react is important.

You should not physically hit, punish, or persistently yell at your dog. That is counter-intuitive as mentioned above. Rather, you should display calm and assertive gestures. Grabbing the leash or collar in time and firmly, reiterates that you are in charge and a relapse is unacceptable.

On the flipside, when your dog displays good behavior, give a reward.

7. Consistency is key

And you should react appropriately consistently. Don’t excuse any instance of misbehavior.
Inconsistency destabilizes your attempt to enforce a legacy of order and predictability, which is necessary to eliminate bad behavior.

Noteworthy tips

• Be patient
• Act quickly and decisively
• Do not engage in games that encourage aggressive behavior, such as Tug-O-War
• Care for your dog’s physical and mental wellbeing, which translates to proper amount of physical exercise, stimulation, and social interaction

How to Train Your Dog to Look at the Camera

Pet owners often ask pet photographers how they get a dog to focus on the camera with amazing eye contact. This is because, this eye contact is something that makes the photo so lively and adorable. The emotion that such a photo would convey is truly incredible, which is precisely what many pet owners crave for.

So without further ado, let’s get you some tips that are apparently used by professional pet photographers to produce photos of dogs that leave viewer amazed.

Noises

Making different types of noises is almost an assured way of getting a response from your dog. However, you will have to try out quite a few different noises in order to figure out which one works the best with your dog. These noises would include a squawking noise made by children to a barking noise dogs tend to make.

It can obviously make you feel a little silly if there are many people around you where you’re practicing this, but once you find out what noise or noises help you get the right response from your dog, you will certainly find it to be totally worth it. In fact, the right kind of noise can even make your dog sport its typical curious look that you probably dream of capturing.

Besides the “noises” that we talked about, you can also consider words that your dog tends to associate with something positive. This, too, is obviously sure to get your dog interested as well as to get a response easily, while you’re ready with a camera to take the perfect shot.

You wouldn’t want to forget giving your dog what you promised by saying those words, though, as if you do, it may make him ignore those words the next time you say them to him.

Dog Toys

Not many dogs will be able to resist looking at their favorite toy with a curious or playful look on their face. And if that’s what you’re after, you can simply hold your dog’s favorite toy along with the camera while taking the photo.

Something worth noting here is that toys that are both visually attractive as well as can produce a curious sound are going to be your best bet. If you’re passionate about taking photos of your dog, and going to do it very often, you may as well want to consider getting a bunch of these toys.

A good alternative, though, can be something like the Isqueak app . It’s going to come in especially handy for those that tend to travel frequently with their dogs, as it would obviously be quite a hassle to carry a bunch of toys along while traveling.

Food Treats

Few dogs would be able to turn down an offer for a treat. And this is what makes treats a great tool to help you take that perfect shot.

There’s probably more than one way of using food treats here, and one of the more effective ones is using them to make your dog sit long enough to take a good picture. If you have tried taking photos of your dog in the past, you probably know that one of the most challenging things you come across in the process is making the dog be in the position you want him to long enough for you to be able to capture it properly with your camera.

However, using treats to make your dog sit in your desired position is going to take some practice. You simply need to get the dog’s attention by showing him the treat, and then asking him to sit if he wants to have it. But you wouldn’t want to give it to him immediately after he sits, as that won’t allow you to take a picture.

Instead, you would want him to sit and wait just a few seconds. Of course, it’s going to require quite a bit of patience, especially if you have a very active dog, as all he is going to do initially is jump around to get the treat.

Another simple trick to get and keep your pet’s attention is to simply let him sniff a treat and then hold it right beside the camera. If the treat is tempting enough for him, he will keep staring at it, easily allowing you to take the perfect shot you’re looking for.

Distractions

Well, if you’re at a place like the park, there are going to be plenty of distractions to make things difficult for you and prevent you from taking a good photo. After all, dogs tend to be very curious, especially if there’s a lot of stuff happening around them.

However, there’s a little pet photography secret that you may not be aware of, but is actually the perfect solution in such a situation. Instead of trying to make your dog ignore the distractions, you should simply use them to your advantage.

What you can do is, simply get between the dog and the distraction that has caught his attention, while also having your camera with you, and you would immediately have an amazing shot waiting to be captured. This is because at that point, the dog will actually be looking right through you, and it probably can’t get any better for you if you want to take a great shot even in an environment full of distractions.

Photography Skills

Some dogs seem to hate things you hold in front of your eyes just as much as they hate fleas or worms. This is simply because they don’t feel comfortable when they are not able to see right into your eyes.

This is precisely when your photography skills can come in and get the job done for you. Basically, what you will need to do is pre-focus the camera on your dog and take it slightly off to one side, leaving your eyes clearly visible to your dog. This will help keep the dog engaged while you capture their look.

Of course, this is something that’s going to need some serious practice, and the chances of occasionally getting a photo with the focus being completely off cannot be ruled out as well, at least not until you get really good at it.