Post Page

If you can’t bear to be parted from your canine friend, why not consider taking him with you on holiday to France? The process can be very straight-forward, and can be cheaper than putting your dog in kennels.

Taking Your Dog Abroad – Before You Go

Pets travelling between countries in the European Union can use the PETS travel scheme, which does not require your dog to go into quarantine. The first step is to get your pet a passport. This will involve a rabies vaccination; a blood test and a six month wait to make sure that there are no pre-existing signs of rabies. Your dog will also need to be micro-chipped (your vet can advise you on the whole of this process).

The least stressful way of travelling for your pet is by car. Travelling on the Eurotunnel is quick and your pet stays in the car with you throughout the crossing; you could also consider the ferry or train.

France is a very dog-friendly country, and dogs are welcomed in many restaurants and cafés. It is fairly common for French B&Bs to accept animals, but make sure that you check beforehand as not all of them do.

Bringing Your Dog Back From France

For the return journey, a little advance planning is required. You will need to visit a French vet less than 48 but more than 24 hours before the time of your crossing, for the tick/flea and worm treatments (don’t forget that most French vets are closed on Sundays, and many also close on Mondays).

The worm treatment is generally offered by tablet or injection, and the tick/flea treatment normally consists of a liquid applied to the back of the neck. This is just the standard treatment that would be regularly carried out by a responsible owner for a non-passported dog, and so should not be traumatic for your pet.

Tick disease (piroplasmose) is very prevalent in France, more so in some areas than others. The main symptoms are fatigue and loss of appetite, and the disease can be fatal, so it is important to take preventative measures. In addition to applying the tick treatment, you should always carry a small hooked tick removal tool, easily obtainable from any French pharmacy or vets, and make sure that you check your pet thoroughly after walks, especially if he is long-haired. If picked up early enough, piro is very treatable, so keep a close eye on your pet, and consult a vet if you are worried. The ticks are most active in the spring and autumn, so take particular care to make sure your dog is protected at these peak times.

Most French vets are very conversant with la rentrée, and most will also give your dog a comprehensive health check to make sure he is fit to travel. Before leaving the surgery, check that the necessary passport pages have been stamped correctly (the tick and worm pages are the obligatory ones). The customs officials will not allow any leeway, and you could be turned away due to forgotten passports or incorrect paperwork.

On the return journey, the procedure is very quick and easy, provided that all the paperwork is in order. Pet Control Officers will check the vet’s stamps in the passport, and also verify (by checking the microchip) that the passport belongs to the dog that you are presenting. The whole process takes only a few minutes, and once the microchip has been verified the dog can be taken outside again if he is getting at all stressed.

On the whole, travelling with your dog is very rewarding and well worth the small amount of ‘red tape’. It is far more satisfying to have your pet with you enjoying the holiday rather than stuck in kennels, and with a little effort you can both have a great time.

Tips

• If you have a UK contact number on your pet’s ID tag, consider getting +44 added
• The smaller French motorway service stations (aires), the ones that have no fuel or food facilities, are generally good places for your dog to stretch his legs, and some have paths and small wooded areas
• It may be cheaper to buy your tick and worm treatment in the UK before you leave. It must be administered by a vet though.
• Take your pet’s normal food and bedding for continuity to make the experience as stress-free as possible.

Selamectin is best known as the active ingredient found in the medication known as Revolution®. Selamectin is applied topically onto the skin, usually between the shoulder blades of the dog or cat, and has a number of different indications for usage.

Revolution® is formulated with selamectin dosages appropriate for either dogs or cats and available as either Canine Revolution® or Feline Revolution®, in various sizes depending on body weight.

Selamectin kills parasites infecting dogs and cats by stimulating the release of GABA (gamma amino butyric acid) and consequently inhibiting neurotransmission and blocking the stimulation of neurons to cause paralysis.

Selamectin (Revolution®) as a Canine and Feline Heartworm Preventive Medicine

One of the prime indications for using selamectin, or Revolution®, is as a heartworm preventive medicine for both dogs and cats. When used to prevent heartworms, selamectin needs to be applied monthly.

Selamectin is not effective where adult heartworms are present and is not effective in killing microfilaria (larval heartworms) circulating in the blood stream of dogs and cats infected with heartworms.

Selamectin as a Flea Control Medicine for Dogs and Cats

Another primary indication for using selamectin is as a flea control medicine for both dogs and cats. As with any flea control product, selamectin is most effective when used as a preventive measure before the dog or cat becomes infested with fleas. However, selamectin will treat an existing flea infestation also. Selamectin should be used monthly for the most effective flea control.

Using Selamectin for Ear Mite Treatment

Selamectin also kills ear mites and is therefore an effective ear mite treatment for dogs and cats. One application is often effective in treating ear mites in infected dogs and cats. However, a second dose of selamectin can be applied after one month for stubborn infections.

Other Uses of Selamectin in Dogs

Selamectin can also be used in dogs to treat:

• one type of tick, known as Dermacentor variabilis. A repeat dose of selamectin may be necessary two weeks following the initial treatment if the infestation of ticks is heavy. However, it should be noted that selamectin is not known to be effective against other types of ticks.
• sarcoptic mange. A second monthly dose of selamectin may be necessary if the mange infection has not cleared in one month.

Other Uses of Selamectin in Cats

In cats, selamectin is also known to be secreted into the intestinal tract and can be used to treat hookworm and roundworm infections.

Potential Side Effects of Selamectin

Selamectin is safe for pregnant animals and for nursing female dogs and cats. However, the medicine should not be used in puppies and kittens less than 6 weeks of age and should be used with caution in sick, underweight or debilitated animals. Some Collie breeds may also be sensitive to selamectin toxicity due to a genetic mutation. Caution should be used in these breeds when using selamectin.

Though selamectin is generally safe, side effects have been noted in some cases with its usage. Side effects may include:

• localized hair loss in the area where selamectin was applied
• itchiness
• swelling
• diarrhea
• vomiting
• muscle tremors
• lack of appetite
• depression
• excess salivation
• rapid respiratory rate
• seizures (rarely)
• incoordination (rarely)

Selamectin should be used topically only and should not be administered orally.

Selamectin (Revolution®) is used as a heartworm preventive medicine, a flea control medicine and an ear mite treatment in both dogs and cats and has several other indications as well. It is relatively safe and frequently used in pets. However, as with any medication, the potential for side effects is present and animals should be observed closely after treatment with selamectin.

When your dog dies, you feel a sense of loss that seems impossible to heal. My husband and I experienced this unfortunate circumstance in May when our puppy, Hopper, unexpectedly passed away. As this was my first time experiencing such a deep, personal loss, I desperately needed some help to get through the next few weeks and months as the loss of Hopper seemed to consume me. With the love and support of my husband and family, I discovered that what would help me heal would be to acknowledge my feelings about the loss of my dog, to surround myself with support as much as possible, and, when I was ready, to give a new dog a forever home. Hopefully, what helped me during this difficult time can help you as you work through your healing process after the death of your dog.

Do Not Downplay Your Feelings

Whether you parented your dog for 15 months or 15 years, you treated your canine like he was your child. Feel comfortable to grieve for him as such. My husband advised me to cry whenever I needed to, and I did, often at random times during the day. Expressing your sadness is a way to release the pain little by little. If you fear embarrassment from crying in front of your co-workers, take some time off of work, if at all possible.

Do not downplay your feelings, thinking that “he was just a dog”. Your four-legged friend spent his life giving you unconditional love. Grieving over him is your way of honoring his life and all that he gave to you and your family.

Surround Yourself with Support

For a couple of weeks after Hopper passed away, I visited my parents and siblings almost every evening because my husband worked nights and it was really tough to spend my evenings in an empty apartment. My family loved Hopper as much as I did, and they gave me the freedom to talk about and cry over his passing as much as I needed to. At the same time, spending positive, quality time with my family gave me the opportunity to slowly take the baby steps that were necessary to move forward with my life.

Surround yourself with support as much as you can. Temporarily avoid spending time with people in your life who are not dog lovers as they probably do not understand the bond between a dog and his owner. If you feel that more support is needed beyond what’s available at home, consider joining an animal loss support group. For many individuals this has proven to be a very helpful outlet because every person in the group knows exactly what you are going through. Also, to receive help while at the same time knowing you are helping others is a good feeling, and good feelings are definitely hard to come by during the grieving process. While grieving for Hopper, I discovered that my local Humane Society offers grief counseling at no charge. A description of their counseling services can be found on their website. Contact your local Humane Society to see if a similiar support group is offered in your area.

Welcome a New Four-Legged Friend into Your Home

Just a few days after Hopper passed away, my husband was eager to adopt again. I, however, was not in a rush to parent another dog. At the time, I equated adopting another dog with replacing Hopper. I felt that Hopper deserved some time to be grieved over before I welcomed a new dog into the family. The fact is that neither my husband nor I had the right answer to the question When should we adopt again? Each individual who experiences the loss of a dog answers this question in a way that is best for him, whether it’s owning a new dog three days later or waiting three years before giving another dog a forever home.

My husband was fully supportive of my feelings, and we waited a month before we adopted the newest addition to our family, Taylor. Our new puppy played a huge role in our healing process. Before adopting Taylor, my husband and I could not help but focus our thoughts on the days when Hopper was sick. Having Taylor in our lives gave us the opportunity to remember the happier moments we had with our first child. Taylor loves to play ball, just like Hopper. She loves to visit my mom and dad, just like Hopper. Taylor even sits like Hopper. If you do decide to own another dog, your new furry friend will likely show behaviors that will remind you of your friend that passed on, but in a positive way. All individuals, both human and canine, would like to be remembered for all the happiness that we gave to others, not for experiences that created sadness for the people we love. Taylor helped my husband and me bring back the wonderful, happy memories that Hopper gave us and made the sad memories take a backseat in our minds. A new dog can do the same for you.

My advice on how to work through the grieving process after the death of your dog is not based on scientific study, but on personal experience. The loss of a dog is something that all dog owners will unfortunately experience, but with the acknowledgement of your feelings about your dog’s passing as well as the support from others, you can take the first steps towards healing. When you are ready, welcoming a new dog into your life will not only benefit him by giving him a forever home, but will help you as you continue to grieve over your dog while at the same time honor his memory.

Photographing your beloved dog or cat can be a great challenge, but if you know when she is in a restful, quiet pose, you can get that photo quickly, and in sharp focus. I love photographing our two Bedlington Terriers, and I have literally thousands of photos of them. We have a female, Misty, who is about 5 years old, and her brother Rogue, about 4 years old. There’s never enough photos, it seems.

Photograph Your Dog When She’s Sleeping

If your pet is running around and playing, its usually next to impossible to capture a good – not to mention great – photograph. After trying to take a good photo of Misty when she was running around, I realized I was fighting the natural flow of things. I saw the answer – just wait till she’s asleep. .

Even with instant auto-focus cameras, if there is the slightest delay between the moment you press the shutter button and the actual shutter release, the shot is usually a miss. Instead of capturing the entire dog in the frame, there would be only part of the dog. A picture of a dog’s back, from on top and angled, is not attractive. Give up the struggle.

Always Have Your Camera Handy

The secret to being able to take your time and to take the photo with great care, is be ready:

• always have your camera with or near you – within arm’s reach
• always have the camera turned on
• have your camera on a tripod in advance of the photo session
• if you are using a built in flash, have the flash turned on in advance
• create an attractive “set” prior to taking the photos
• groom your dog beforehand so she’ll look amazing

Create A Simple Photo Set For Your Pet

How can you create a “set” for your dog or cat before the photo session? Simple – just cover the chair or floor or backdrop with material. Obtain neutral colored material from a fabric shop, or from your own closet. How big? That will depend

1. on the size of the couch, chair, floor, or seat you wish to cover,
2. on the size of your dog or cat,
3. on the size of the surrounding area upon which you choose to have photographic control

The color of the material should not interfere with the photograph itself. Backgrounds are best when they are neutral and not even noticed. I like neutral tones, and in the photo above, it is a rich, dark brown which complements Misty’s beautiful grey fur.

Pick Up Your Pet And Move Her Into The Set

If your pet is asleep, simply pick her up and move her over to the set your created. As simple as that sounds, it works. If your sweet dog is asleep, lying down, nice and still, you will be able to take your time and take as many photos as you want, and she will be still, in focus, and cooperative. It’s certainly a solution and easier than trying to capture her when she’s running around.

Leave Space For Cropping

As you look through the viewfinder, leave an extra 20% margin on each of the four sides of the animal for cropping (do this whenever you photograph anything). As you enlarge a photo, it expands proportionately and you will need the space. If you take a digital photo, of course you can instantly see the results – thus, you can adjust accordingly. Next, look to see If the angle of the photo is attractive. Can you see her eyes? Does her entire body fit in the frame? Is it in precise focus? Did you look at all possible angles? Time and practice and experience will enhance your results. You will always cherish your photos of your beloved pets. Take many photos. Keep practicing. Your photos will become more and more beautiful as you practice.

During the past 13 years I’ve been lucky enough to enjoy the company of two dogs while walking, our dog Almo (who is sadly no longer with us), and Joker.

Almo

Almo was a Collie/Sheltie cross. He had the short Sheltie legs, but the sturdy body and strong neck of a Collie. Yep. He was pretty low to the ground, and had a barrel chest, which made him pretty powerful. Being 85 pounds didn’t hurt either. He was also very stubborn and single-minded.

I started out using a choke chain to try to train Almo how to walk nice. This didn’t work. His neck and fur were so thick and his willpower so strong that he would risk injuring himself before he would stop pulling.

So, I switched to a regular collar. It seemed more humane. But he would pull and pull, even as he gasped for air.

Back at the pet supply store, I held a nose harness in one hand and body harness in the other. Because of his low centre of gravity, I decided on the body harness.

At first, he walked carefully. It was odd for him to have straps around his chest and behind his front legs, I suppose. But he quickly got used to it. And with the leash attached to his back and the control focused on his barrel chest, he responded quickly to just a slight tug. He didn’t pull anymore and our walks were no longer a power struggle between him and me.

Joker

Joker is an eight-year-old Australian Shepherd/German Shepherd Cross. He weighs in at about 95 pounds and while he can be single-minded, he is less stubborn and more of a thinker than Almo was.

Because of the lack of success with the choke chain and the regular neck collar with Almo, I decided that perhaps the body harness would be a good place to start.

When I first put the harness on him, to say he didn’t like it at all was an understatement. He jumped around and bucked like a wild horse. But after a while, when he figured out I wasn’t giving in to his drama, he settled down. And he actually walked well for the first little while. I suppose it was because he was busy figuring out how to get the better of me.

And he did.

One day he saw a dog he wanted to get closer to (Joker is a herding dog, so he naturally thinks that all other animals should be under his control). Instead of just pulling, which he knew wouldn’t work, he reared up and then used all his weight to pull me when he hit the ground.

It was the middle of winter and we were on a hill, so I ended up skiing behind him. I was surprised that he had used his weight as he did to get to where he wanted to go; the other dog’s owner and her little dog were surprised to see us charging toward them; and Joker was very proud of himself.

From then on in, I got him to sit whenever another dog approached, but that didn’t help if he decided to pull. He had learned how to use his weight and the body harness to his advantage. It was definitely time to try something else.

So, I bought the nose harness. And he hates it, but only because it stops him from rearing up and pulling me.

The nose harness has given me back control. When his front paws leave the ground, I can pull him back down with little effort.

It took some trial and error to find the right harness for both my dogs. And it is important that you do the same – if you want to enjoy your walks and let others around you enjoy theirs as well.

What constitutes the right harness? One that is comfortable for him, but controls his pulling with as little effort as possible for you.