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How to Housetrain a New Puppy: Ensure a Good Dog & Owner Relationship with Gentle Housebreaking

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When a puppy is being house trained, mistakes are going to happen. Puppies are physically unable to hold their urine for more than a few hours until they are 4-6 months old, at minimum (some might take much longer than this). And when a new puppy soils the house, it needs to be seen as the fault of the owner, not the puppy.

First, Choose a “Bathroom” Outside for the Puppy

Select a space outside that’s not far from the door, and using a leash, take the puppy to that spot for each bathroom break. Walks or playtime should be given only after the puppy has relieved herself.

When cleaning up an accident in the house, use a rag or paper towel and leave them in the pup’s potty area; the smell will let her know that this is the spot she is supposed to use.

Use the Same Word Each Time as a Signal

Choose a word or phrase like “go potty,” “tinkle,” “hurry,” or “go now” and repeat it over and over until the puppy relieves herself. It’s important to use the same word each time, and then praise her immediately once she goes. Soon, she’ll associate the word with the action; as she gets older, her owner will be able to use the word to remind her what she is supposed to do.

Praise & Reward

When the puppy does what she is supposed to do, praise her as though she is the best puppy on Earth! She can also get a treat immediately after she goes, or be taken for a walk, saying something like an enthusiastic, “Good girl! Let’s go for a walk!” If she gets a treat, be sure it’s given right after she eliminates outside, rather than when she comes back in the house.

Maintain a Schedule

Like any baby, puppies thrive on routine. They need to eat and nap at about the same time each day, and they need to be brought outside to relieve themselves at least every two hours.

New puppies usually eat 3-4 times daily; if they’re fed at the same time each day, their digestive systems will get into a routine and the owner will be better able to predict when they’ll go each day. This makes housebreaking a bit easier for both pup and owner.

Puppies should be taken outside for potty breaks:

  • After eating or drinking
  • After they awaken from a nap
  • After a bath
  • After playing

Keep Pup Within Eye Shot at All Times

It’s important for the owner not to turn her back on a puppy during the housebreaking period, because she needs to watch for signs that the puppy needs to go sniffing, circling, pacing. This can be the most difficult part of the process.

Here are some tips to make it easier to keep an eye on the new puppy:

  • Use baby gates that are easy to move and set up to keep the pup corralled in the same room; i.e., the kitchen when dinner is being prepared, or the TV room while the family relaxes together in the evening.
  • Use a long (six-foot) leash to tether the pup to the wrist or around the waist.
  • Use a crate (first, consult with veterinarian to learn safe and humane process for crate training)

When Accidents Happen

Do not punish a pup for soiling in the house. Puppies are emotionally very sensitive, and punishment for housebreaking accidents can cause the puppy to become frightened of the owner. This will likely prolong the house training process, causing distress for both owner and puppy.

Be sure to clean up any messes with an ezyme product that will completely eliminate any trace of odor so the dog will not return to the area to eliminate.

Puppies Want to Please Their Owners

Remember, a puppy wants to please its owner, but she doesn’t understand human language. She has to learn what is expected of her, and she relies on her owner to gently and kindly teach these expectations.

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Why Dogs Love Clicker Training

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Click, treat, click treat! All across the world as positive reinforcement and gentle training methods become popular, clicker training has proved over time to be one of the preferred methods for teaching dogs. Indeed, based on the principles of classical and operant conditioning, clicker training appears to highly interest dogs who seem to look forward with much anticipation to their clicker training sessions.

Clicker training has also proved beneficial to treat behavioral problems in dogs. It is not unusual to hear about reserved, timid dogs, opening up and gaining confidence thanks to a clicker. Even fear and aggression issues can be resolved with the use of a clicker.

Understanding Clicker Training

But what is a clicker and how does it work? A clicker is a simple noise making device that was once used as a child’s toy. It is basically a rectangular plastic box with a flexible metal tongue that makes the characteristic clicking sound upon being pushed down with the thumb. This device is used to tell your dog in a very straightforward way that he has been doing what you asked him to do. In order to work, the clicker must be followed by a reward being either a mouthwatering treat or a brief tug of war game.

By watching carefully a clicker training session, it appears as if the clicking noise is used to replace verbal rewards. Indeed, a clicker can be a better tool in delivering a ‘good boy’ to your dog. It is fast, always the same and dogs appear to understand its non emotional meaning quickly and clearly.

Why Dogs Love Clicker Training

Clicker training is based on classical conditioning. In order to understand classical conditioning dog owners must go back to Ivan Pavlov. The Russian scientist had figured out how dogs developed a tendency to drool at the sound of a bell. This was a learned behavior developed with time, after the dogs had been used to being fed after the bell was sound.

In the same way, dogs associate the clicker with tasty treats. Indeed, some dogs even drool buckets of saliva upon seeing the clicker. This is one reason why dogs love clicker training. The other reason is that clicker training also works because of operant conditioning.

In order to understand operant conditioning, dog owners must go back to Skinner and his rat studies. Skinner had set up special metal cages (known as Skinner boxes) where rats had to push a lever in order to get fed. In simple words the rat had to ‘operate’ in order to get a reward.

In the same way, dogs must perform some actions in order for the owner to click and treat. Because a reward follows, dogs therefore are eager to work and seek clicker training sessions with much anticipation.

Clicker training is therefore a marvelous way for dogs to learn. As old training methods based on punishment and coercion start to fade away, a new path of reward based training techniques is being paved and built over the old fashioned training methods of the past.

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Unsung Heroes.The Dogs That Save Lives

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Dogs have long since been appreciated as ‘man’s’ best friend’ but do we really appreciate the very breadth of roles they carry out that help to ensure that humans are kept safe?. These dogs work not for money, nor recognition, but for the praise of their owners and for a meal at the end of the day. They have saved countless lives and, in doing so, many have lost their own. The photograph used to illustrate this article includes a memorial to honour just a fraction of the dogs that died in warfare and, in my opinion, it is a particularly poignant image.

Military Working Dogs

‘About.com’ tells us in ‘Military working dogs’ that dogs have been used in warfare as far back as Roman times, when they were sent into battle with razor blades attached to their collars in order that they appeared particularly fearsome to their enemies. They were used in world war I, Primarily to keep the rat population down in the trenches, but they came into their own in WW II when the Americans trained over 10,000 canines for use as sentries, scouts, messengers and mine detectors.

In current warfare’discovery.com’ points out in’Dogs of war’ that the troops depend on dogs to find hidden explosives and lost soldiers. Corporal Andrew Guzman states that he trust the dogs more than metal detectors and mine sweepers. These dogs are also trained to detect the most common compounds found in the manufacture of IED’s ( Improvised Explosive Devices) and have saved thousands of lives in this way. The relationship between soldier and dog can be just as strong as one between soldiers, they depend on each other to stay alive.

Working or Assistance Dogs

Working dogs are defined as dogs that are trained specifically to aid a person with a particular health problem. Guide dogs for the blind are probably the best known, but thousands of dogs around the world help people with varying illnesses. Their roles vary from giving people comfort and company to saving their lives. ‘disaboom.com’ tells us in service dogs help disabled, save lives that dogs that started life as narcotics dogs can be trained to be able to sniff out the slightest trace of peanut oil, therefore saving their severely allergic owners from a potentially fatal reaction. Other dogs are trained to be able to detect the changes in a persons body chemistry up to 45 minutes before an epileptic seizure, therefore being able to give the sufferer adequate warning to get to a safe place and to summon help, if required.

Dogs can also sense changes in a persons blood sugar levels, making them invaluable in helping diabetics to avoid hypoglycaemic attacks, and possibly comas. Research is still being carried out on the question of whether dogs can smell cancer. A study done in California points to evidence that dogs can detect early and late stage lung and breast cancer. Later studies have shown that ovarian cancer has a different chemical smell that dogs appear to be able to distinguish. The possibilities for the future appear endless.

The Special Relationship Between Human and dog That Saves Lives’

Lifegaurds don’t just come in the human form! The ‘life guard dogs of Italy’. are as dedicated as any lifegaurd crew! These 300 dogs, mainly Newfounlands and Labradors, fearlessly jump from helicopters to rescue hapless swimmers off the coast of Italy. There are many individual stories of courage and bravery from dogs both trained and untrained . In Haita in January 2010 search and rescue dogs worked tirelessly and found, amongst others, 3 girls trapped under 4 feet of concrete, they were pulled out alive. Other stories include a woman in Minnesota whose dog, Bella, jumped on her bed, alerting her to the smell of smoke that heralded the fact her house

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Tips for Training Basset Hound Puppies: Toilet, Separation, Collar and Lead Preparation

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Basset hounds are slow to mature mentally and are notoriously slow to house train. But once they have it, they don’t forget it. The pup will give its owner signs when it needs to relieve itself, a chance for the owner to spot them, pick the pup up and take it outside to go to the toilet in the proper place. The signs to look out for are:

  • Running about sniffing
  • Turning around two or three times
  • Squatting to relieve itself

Good Practice for Encouraging a Pup to Relieve Itself in the Correct Place

Every time the pup wakes up, after eating and drinking and after playing are all key times when an owner can set up the routine of letting the dog out to encourage it to relieve itself in the correct location, outside rather than in the house. Even if it doesn’t relieve itself to start with, it will soon get used to the process of going outside and with regular positive reinforcement the pup will start to do this itself.

An 8 – 10 week puppy is unable to control its bowels and bladder all night so expect accidents and put down plenty of newspaper outside its bed so that any mess can be easily cleared up. During the day it is an idea to put newspaper down by the door through which the pup will go out, then if the pup doesn’t make it completely outside it will soil the newspaper. If the time of year allows, leaving the door open will encourage the pup to let itself out. However, owners need to be on the lookout, when the weather cools because the door will be closed and the pup will ask to go out.

Punishment doesn’t help house training, particularly if the reason the pup messes inside is because no one is there to let it out. With the best will in the world, mistakes are going to happen and if absences are likely to be flexible, a dog-flap might be an option.

Socialisation and Separation Training of Basset Puppies

Basset hounds are pack-animals who don’t do well alone. They love people and should be socialised at between 8 to 12 weeks of age. A basset pup can be very sensitive and impressionable so must feel safe and protected during the training.

Although owners spend a lot of time with their puppies, there are times when it must be left alone. A suggested method for preparing the puppy for separation is:

  1. Firstly, play with the pup and when it seems to be tiring put it in its bed with a favourite toy and a couple of biscuits/treats.
  2. Then leave the puppy for 15 to 20 minutes. If it barks or whines, ignore it.
  3. Return to the puppy when it is quiet and give praise.

In time, the puppy will realise its owner will only return when it is quiet and not when it’s making a noise. Leaving a radio on in the background will provide comfort or giving the pup a piece of old clothing that has retained the owners smell will help to reassure it.

Training a Basset Puppy to Walk with Collar and Lead

Basset puppies tend to take to a collar and lead quite quickly, but the following tips may help speed up the process:

  • Four or five days after bringing the basset puppy home put a soft collar on it.
  • Put the collar on every day. The pup will probably scratch at it but ignore that.
  • After a week the pup should be accustomed to the collar so the next step is to attach a lead to the collar and let the pup trail it behind it for a few minutes.
  • Play with the puppy or put a meal down for it – the pup will get used to the lead and collar in a positive environment.
  • Pick up the lead and encourage the pup to walk beside the owner. Speak calmly and put a special tidbit in the hand.
  • Allow the pup to smell the tidbit and encourage it to follow the smell. The pup will soon be walking on the lead without realising it.

It is important to give plenty of praise to the puppy and it’s worth keeping the training sessions short. It’s much more effective to carry out several short sessions during the day, if possible, rather than one long one which will tire both pup and owner and try the patience. If there is an older dog which walks steadily on the lead it will be easier to train the new puppy as it will normally happily trot alongside its kennel mate.

There are hundreds of websites selling products for dog care and training, but one item that is recommended by breeders and trainers is a nylon collar, adjusted with 2 buckles, interlinked with a small circle of chain, with a ring onto which the lead is clipped. If it is adjusted correctly the collar will fit nicely, but if the puppy pulls or tries to escape, the collar will tighten to facilitate control, safely and securely.

Due to the terrific growth rate of young basset hounds there is a huge pressure on the puppies’ ligaments, muscles and bone development, so it is recommended to avoid long walks with a young dog up to 6 months of age. With this in mind, it might be worth carrying out the collar and lead training in the garden or a restricted place where the puppy isn’t tempted to walk too far.

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How to Lead Train Young Dogs: Getting a Puppy to Walk Well on a Lead

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After three months old, a puppy is ready to brave the big wide world. However, getting him to walk well on a lead can be problematic.

All young dogs are inquisitive by nature, and want to explore. This can make lead training difficult, as the puppy wants to be everywhere but by the owner when they go for a walk. The sights, sounds and smells of new places can be irresistible to a puppy, and it is important to catch poor lead behaviour very early on before it develops in to something more difficult to control.

The Pulling Game

Many dogs don’t go through an adequate socialisation or lead training programme when they are young. This leads to pulling, biting and snapping when other dogs come in to view. The dog makes a harsh rasping noise as he tries to pull away from the lead, making walking an exhaustive process for the owner.

A well-trained dog can be a pleasure to walk, but a poorly-trained one can be frustrating.

The First Principles of Lead Training

Firstly, a dog needs to be well socialised. This means that he is used to other dogs and responds well to them. This is why it is very important to introduce the dog to as many others of his species as possible as soon as he has had his inoculations against disease. Going to socialisation classes early on is invaluable, or even just taking the dog to the park and letting him romp with others, or introducing him to friends and family who have dogs too, so he can get used to being around all manner of breeds and temperaments.

Starting Lead Training

As soon as the pup is ready to go out, use the lead as part of toilet training. Pop him on it when he goes in to the garden and walk with him as he has a good explore. Encourage him to go where he likes on the lead, letting him get accustomed to it and praising him for good behaviours.

Reward with treats or puppy biscuits if he comes back to you, even on a lead, and wears the lead without chafing at it or jumping about. Gradually, the puppy will understand that the lead is a positive thing that lets him go out, rather than something that will tether or restrict him.

Continuing Lead Training in the Outside World

When your pup is comfortable with the lead, it is time to go on the first walk together. Get lots of treats and set out when the puppy is feeling confident. The best possible beginning is to take another dog along too, as the puppy will focus on the dog rather than pulling.

If having another dog along on the walk is not possible, take the following steps to achieve a perfect walk:

  • Reward the puppy when he stays near you without pulling
  • Keep him focused by showing him treats and encouraging him
  • Try not to pull on the lead, or shout, as the puppy will need to trust his owner if things get frightening
  • Engage his attention with a favourite squeaky toy if he gets distracted
  • Walk at an easy, gentle pace without stopping so he understand he needs to walk beside you
  • Try to keep going – don’t stop unless he needs to go to the toilet, as this will make your pace more difficult to second-guess and understand
  • Always keep calm, confident and relaxed, as tension from the owner will wind the puppy up.

If the puppy does well, reward him with lots of love and affection. A walk that goes well the very first time should be the best possible experience for owner and puppy, and this can be repeated again and again with positive reinforcement for a happy and relaxed future together.

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Puppy Training and Socialization: It’s Never Too Early to Enroll a Puppy in a Training Class

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Early training and socialization can literally save a puppy’s life.

Canine behaviorists today agree that early socialization and training are essential. They propose that a puppy begin classes, for both the socializing and training they provide, at ten weeks of age. However, many people, including veterinarians and breeders, are still in the dark ages about the appropriate age at which to begin training and socializing a dog.

No Need to Wait Until the Puppy is Completely Inoculated or a Bit Older

Some breeders and veterinarians caution against putting a puppy into a training class or social situations with other dogs too soon for fear that they might contract a disease before they are completely inoculated. They stress waiting until the dog is six months or one year old before beginning.

However, many canine behaviorists argue that the disease risks to a puppy that is exposed to other healthy puppies in a well-run puppy class are minimal compared to the problems that often arise because that puppy was not socialized or trained early on. Given that the window of opportunity for socializing a puppy with other dogs is anywhere from four weeks to four months, it doesn’t make sense to wait. Yet so many dogs find their way to a trainer only after their undesirable behavior and aggression are well established.

In the past, heavy handed, choke-chain and other harsh methods precluded having a puppy in training too early. Thankfully, these methods are slowly dying out in favor of positive reinforcement and canine-friendly training techniques.

Puppies, as well as Mature Dogs, Need Year-Round Socialization with Other Dogs

Many dog owners, as well meaning and caring as they may be, are not aware of the consequences of under-socialization. They are not aware of the negative effects on a dog that is, for the most part, isolated from other dogs. Fear aggression and its by-product leash aggression are two of the most common problems among dogs that have not been socialized with other dogs.

Puppies should be exposed to a variety of other dogs – all sizes, ages, and breeds – as soon as possible and with regularity. Even brief periods of isolation or lack of socialisation due to poor weather or demanding routines can be incredibly damaging for a pup’s social habits. A month in a puppy’s life is the equivalent of one year in a human’s life, meaning that extended gaps in socialising can have devastating consequences on their social health.

Dr. Ian Dunbar, a veterinarian and internationally recognized animal behaviorist, has cautioned that “the number one cause of death among dogs is bad behavior [from lack of training and socialization].” A dog’s life is literally in the hands of his/her owner.

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Pros and Cons of Pedigree, Cross-Breed and Non-Pedigree Dogs

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Pros and Cons of Pedigree, Cross-Breed and Non-Pedigree Dogs

Before choosing a dog it is important to take some time to consider whether to get a pedigree, cross-breed or non-pedigree dog. Each has various pros and cons, which may impact upon finances and preferences.

Pedigreed Dogs – Pros and Cons

The main advantages associated with opting for a pedigreed (pure-bred) dog is that this makes it easier to know more about appearance and usual temperament, through researching a specific breed. Pedigrees are typically well-raised, making it likely that the animal will be healthy. However, contrary to what one may be led to believe, it is actually pure-bred dogs that tend to suffer more frequently from both physical and psychological health problems, due to inbreeding.

In Dog Basics, Davis identifies disadvantages associates with buying a pedigree dog, to include the following:

  • More expensive than cross-breeds
  • Some prone to hereditary problems
  • Some prone to particular ailments
  • May have high care needs
  • Certain breeds are hard to obtain as rare

Cross-Breed and Non-Pedigree Dogs – Pros and Cons

Advantages relating to opting for a cross-breed, include that they are normally more hardy and less expensive than pedigrees, with the latter being particularly relevant, in today’s difficult financial climate. Being able to know the parents, it is typically much easier to then get an idea as to how the dog’s appearance and character will map out. Davis highlights a key advantage of choosing a cross breed: being that they are usually intended, making it more likely for puppies to have been raised with care, while disadvantages of cross-breeds include that they are often not easily available and some combinations can be very hard work, such as a Border Collie x English Springer Spaniel.

In contrast to pedigreed dogs, non-pedigrees are typically inexpensive and are less likely to suffer from various ailments and health-related problems. Non-pedigreed dogs are also much easier to obtaom and many different types are often readily available. However, according to Davis, non-pedigreed dogs have the following disadvantages:

  • Character traits of parents generally unknown
  • Uncertain how dog will turn out
  • Hard to be sure the dog has been properly raised and cared for

As highlighted above, knowing the pros and cons associated with pedigree, non-pedigree and cross breeds will make it much easier when it comes to choosing a puppy or rescue dog. While pedigree dogs such as Jack Russell Terriers and Labrador Retrievers are usually raised with great care and have a smart appearance, they are more likely to suffer various physical and psychological health problems, due to inbreeding.

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What to Consider When Adopting a Golden Retriever Puppy

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Doing thorough research is an essential part of the adoption process when considering a Golden Retriever puppy, just like any other pup. While many know that they are lovable, gentle and loyal dogs who get along great with children, there are some important details to consider when deciding on welcoming a golden retriever pup into your family. After all, those friendly neighbors and dog walkers may not be aware of the full extent of what comes with golden retriever ownership.

Life with a Golden Retriever Puppy

Golden retrievers are high energy working dogs, and they are young for a very long time; about four or five years. One golden retriever owner found this out too late, because she didn’t do her research:

Diane, a lonely apartment dweller, decided to adopt a puppy. She’d seen and heard what wonderful pets golden retrievers make. Whenever Diane saw a golden retriever assistance dog, it was quietly sitting next to its owner in the library, or doctors office. She decided a golden retriever puppy was for her so she looked in the classifieds and found one for sale by a backyard breeder. Since she lived in an apartment, she bought the runt of the litter, a blond female cutie she named Sugar. On the way home, Diane bought lots of toys for her new puppy.

Soon, Diane discovered the joys of golden retriever puppies and their abundance of energy that kept them playing from sunrise to sunset. From running and jumping – even on people – to fetch and tug-of-war, these playful pups provided endless entertainment. As Diane’s seventy-pound pup jumped around, she was reminded that this breed may not be the most suitable for her lifestyle; but regardless, she could not help but appreciate their lively personalities and enthusiasm for life.

Things to Consider when Adopting a Golden Retriever Puppy

  • Golden retrievers are working dogs and need to be working all the time.
  • Golden retrievers are high energy dogs.
  • Golden retrievers are very social dogs and want to be with people all the time.
  • Golden retrievers need lots of exercise.
  • Golden retrievers need to start obedience training as soon as possible.
  • Golden retriever puppies will be in the puppy stage for a very long time.
  • Golden retrievers do not become calm until they grow out of the puppy stage.

Golden Retrievers as Apartment Dogs

Despite their size, Golden Retrievers can make great apartment dogs when given the proper environment. Taking them to the local dog park twice a day allows these beloved pups to get the exercise they need while also providing opportunities for socializing with other doggos. This lifestyle may require extra effort from stay-at-home parents or retirees, but it’s still possible. Alternatively, adopting an older golden retriever could be another great option for those living in apartments.

Golden Retriever Puppies – the Ideal Living Environment

A loving home with school-age children and a large backyard makes the perfect setting for a golden retriever. They become an integral part of the family, taking part in any activity that they can! Whether that’s camping, playing soccer, or curling up on the couch to watch some TV – these canine companions seek out companionship from their owners and are always looking for ways to be involved. Even if their owner is single or retired, golden retrievers can still make great pets. All it takes is some obedience training so the pup can understand basic commands, regular socialization with other dogs and people, and plenty of stimulation. With all that in mind, a golden retriever can be an incredibly calming presence in any home.
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How to House Break a Puppy or Young Dog: Toilet Training for Puppies

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Careful training at an early age is the key to having a socially-adept, friendly and well-behaved dog in later life. However, many people feel confused by the difficulties a puppy can cause, and are not sure how to go about house-breaking their new pet.

The First Principle of House Breaking

The objective of house-breaking is to teach your puppy from a very early age that it is not acceptable to mess indoors. This is a daunting task, as a young puppy has no idea why it is wrong to wee on the carpet, and therefore will not understand initially why it is OK to go to the toilet outside, but not indoors.

The first principle of having a well-adjusted, secure and happy puppy is to start crate training. A crate is a large metal-framed ‘cage’ with a warm bed in it, which is secure, well-ventilated and safe. All major pet retailers sell them. The crate has a number of benefits:

  • Gives much-needed peace to the owner when the puppy gets to be too much
  • Encourages the puppy to learn to be alone, making future separation anxiety unlikely
  • Offers the pup a safe, cozy and inviolable space which is just for him
  • Offers the basics needed for effective house-breaking.

To crate train, put the crate in a safe warm place and line half of it with paper of a puppy pad, and half with a lovely cozy bed. Lock the puppy in at night when it is time to sleep. Get him used to it as a warm space which is all his own. Never use the crate as a punishment. In a few days, the pup will learn that his bed in the crate is a great thing, and choose to go there by himself rather than being told to! It is impossible to underestimate the usefulness of a crate – the pup can go in if an owner has to pop out for a while, and it keeps him feeling secure and happy.

Starting to House-Break

Here are the rules of simple house-training.

Keep the pup in a small enclosed area from ages 0 – 8 weeks. The kitchen is perfect for this as lino is easy to clean! Keep the crate in the kitchen too. Put a puppy pad or newspaper down by the door, and spray it with a special training aid, which makes the pad smell irresistible for the pup to use.

  • Praise the pup every time he goes on the pad or paper, and ignore any accidents (these are inevitable, don’t draw any attention to them at all)
  • Clean up any mess as soon as possible after it has been done
  • By 10 weeks, the pup should be in control of his bladder and bowel to the extent that he can use the pad when required.

Treat all messes on the carpet or floor with a spray designed to eliminate odour, to prevent reoccurrence in the same place.

Training From 3 Months Onwards

  • After the pup has had all his vaccinations, he can start to go outside on a lead. When he wakes up first thing in the morning, go straight to him, let him out of the crate and take him out without delay
  • Wait until he does his business outside, and shower him with praise
  • Repeat this twenty minutes after each meal or drink, when he wakes up, first thing in the morning and last thing at night.

Gradually, the pup will learn that outside wees are good, and inside ones are not good.

Pups are usually highly intelligent, clean and desperate to please their owners. By using praise and encouragement each time the pup does well, the messages will gradually sink in and he will be house-broken. At twelve weeks, with the use of a single pad by the door, the puppy will be sufficiently trained to ensure no more messes in the wrong places.

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Beginning Training for a Dog

From the time a dog steps foot into a home, a training regime should be implemented. Having order lets the dog know that it can’t have free reign.

Being a firm, but understanding, leader is important. Cesar Millan sums up what all beginning trainers should remember, “Don’t be aggressive, be dominant.”

Potty Training

The dreaded bathroom training is the best place to start. Make sure to use a leash, as it helps to keep the dog from getting distracted and wasting time.

Make a designated spot for eliminating. Find a tree or plot that will be its “bathroom” so it will go there every time, which also makes clean up easier.

If the dog has an accident inside, don’t get upset and punish. Clean up the mess and put the dog in a crate for a little alone time. This will teach it that it is not good, but not that the dog is bad.

Leash Training

Many people can think that leash training can be almost not worth trying, but it is does result in a well-behaved walker.

Leash pulling is the number one problem. Start training in an area where the dog won’t find distractions easily. Use treats to keep it at your side, and stop walking if it starts to tug.

Mix up the walk by the pace and the direction. This will keep the pup alert and ready to follow you, instead of it leading you.

Bark Training

Barking can be a nuisance, but attended to early enough, it can be controlled. Some breeds are prone to barking because it is in their genetics, so training them might take some extra time.

Find what instigates the barking, then keep track of how long it takes for the dog to calm down. This will help identify what to really focus on.

Be firm but not harsh when reprimanding. Don’t hit or scream, and definitely don’t give up if the dog won’t stop.

Keep an ear out for when the dog isn’t yelping. This is a good time to praise for good behavior and will help the dog understand that quiet is preferred in the household.

Jumping Training

Some dogs look adorable when they get jumpy, but others could knock you down. Teaching a dog not to tackle you or anyone else will save you a lot of trouble.

Stay consistent, even if it means the dog can’t play “jump up” with your family. Let every visitor have the option to know that turning away from the dog is okay, and that it will encourage them to stop leaping up.

Use a leash if the dog if comfortable, because a leash will be a firm force to tell the dog “no” without being mean.

Stopping a jumper will take time, but invest as much time as possible, and make sure to introduce various situations so they will be ready for anything.