Introduction

Dogs can be great pets. They are loyal, affectionate, protective and truly lovable creatures. There is no reason that you shouldn’t consider getting a dog as a pet. Those who have had the privilege of such an experience would know that chewing issues, a common problem that might be experienced with pet dogs, is one that might actually be caused by teething. Chewing inappropriate things is a very common complaint found among dog owners. So the question is, why does your dog feel the need to chew at your brand new shoes, and can you stop it from happening?

There are a bunch of reasons that your dog has chewing issues, one of which is decided when your dog is a puppy. Puppies are naturally fond of chewing things as a way to experience the world and all that is new to them. At this point in their lives, chewing is a natural thing as growing teeth can be painful and chewing can often alleviate the pain; overall, it is not much of a cause for concern. However, if the problem remains untreated it can lead to your dog adopting bad chewing habits in the long term, which is one of the reasons that fully grown dogs chew and damage things.

Other reasons that your dog might be chewing at inappropriate objects could be separation anxiety. If your dog chews an object he shouldn’t otherwise be snacking on, try to notice when this occurs. If it happens during the periods of time when you are away from him it might be due to separation anxiety.

Sometimes inappropriate chewing can be a response to boredom. If the dog has too much energy and not a lot of places to use it, then he is likely to react by getting at some of your stuff in a way you don’t really want.

Also, don’t completely disclude the idea that your dog might have a medical problem which is causing him to sporadically chew items inappropriately.

Last but not least, don’t discount the instinct that a dog has. All dogs like to chew; although excessive chewing is not necessarily normal. So these were a few reasons why chewing problems are faced by so many owners and to answer the second part of the question, yes there are certain measures that can be taken to stop it from happening.

How to overcome

When trying to decide how to go about limiting your dogs chewing habits it’s important to note what the reason for his chewing problems is. If it is something he is learning to do habitually as a puppy then prevention is probably the best cure.

One of the most common rules to prevent inappropriate chewing is to identify it and if the dog is chewing an object in front of you, try to replace it with a chew toy. Keeping a chew toy clean and ready at a time like this can really be helpful. Sometimes dogs can have certain times of day that they like to chew so introducing a chew toy to them then can be very useful.

Another method is to use ill tasting sprays that are available on the market (specific to repelling dogs as to keep them safe). These repellants can help condition the dog to be negatively reinforced at the thought of wanting to chew the objects so that he will be repulsed by the items instead.

If your dog does chews your things because he is bored you need to make sure he uses up all that extra energy he has accumulated. Take him for a walk or play with him to ensure that some exercise is happening and that the dog is calm and relaxed so that he doesn’t want to chew anything.

If your dog is experiencing separation anxiety you should be careful to make sure you cater for it. Take him to the vet for some advice on how to handle the situation. Moreover be sure to leave the dog resting and calm when you leave, something that can be achieved if you take him for a walk before you go. There is a ‘no touch, no talk and no eye contact’ rule that is meant to ensure that you do not leave the house with your dog feeling excited.

Remember, whatever corrective steps you take, be calm and kind to your dog. Patience will be rewarded with positive responses. If you do not keep your cool, your dog will not reciprocate the way you want him to. Also be sure to recognize that there are inhumane ways to tackle any issues you have with your dog and all of these are wrong and should be completely shunned and avoided. Treat your dog like your loved pet and he will respond with double the love.

Prevention

Prevention can only take place if you get ahead of the problem. Many a times, as the chewing issues are tied to the dog’s infancy, it is necessary to put measures in place as early as that. Even as a puppy, excessive chewing is bad so if you find your dog experiencing it, mention in to your physician and rule out any medical emergencies that might be causing your puppy to chew inappropriately.

When bringing a puppy into your home you must puppy proof your home. Puppies are inquisitive by nature and will look around every corner of your house for things to bite on. Get rid of any dangerous plants, toxic substances and electronic materials that might be potentially harmful for your puppy if ingested.

Try to provide as many chewing toys to your dog as early on as possible. The puppy will decide which toy he likes best, just make sure that it is there and he can use it in case he has the urge to chew something (as discussed, teething means puppies will have an urge to chew on something at sometime). Praise your dog when he chews on these objects. Try not to encourage the puppy to chew on all kinds of bones, as some can break and remain stuck in the puppy’s throat. Also, don’t choose anything too big for the dog to chew as ambitious dogs can harm themselves in such cases.

Early discouragement of inappropriate chewing can also help make sure it is not a habit in the long term. This can also include using repellants that have been previously featured as a method of overcoming chewing issues as well. Exercising was also previously mentioned in such a context and is one of the things that can help prevent and overcome chewing issues.

Summary

The way to look at it is if your dog has chewing issues and is a puppy then remedying it as early as you can is your best bet or else it will linger on till adulthood. On the other hand if your dog exhibits such traits in adulthood then try finding out what the cause is as this will determine how to deal with the issue. Interestingly there is a cross section between some of the methods that can be used to overcome chewing issues with your dog after they manifest and the steps you can take before which are entirely preventative. Try looking at a combination of a few methods to achieve good results and remember to be patient with your dog. You may be able to buy another pair of those shoes, but you won’t be able to find another canine friend quite like the one you have.

Introduction

If you’ve ever had a dog as a pet then you know what it’s like to have to stare into those big eyes that melt your heart and have you eating right out of their paws. This is a very common way for dogs to get what they want: be it some extra attention or that sandwich you had been looking forward to all day.

From what can be pieced together, it seems that this long relationship that canines and human beings have established as owner and pet have resulted in lessons to learn for both sides. We have made extensive progress in dog training and trying to domesticate dogs in the best possible ways and they have discovered that the way to get what they want is through flashing us doe eyes and appealing to the part of us which cannot deny cuteness. In some ways, begging with whiny noises and large pouts is a coercive technique that we fall for ever so often, giving the dogs whatever they ask of us.

One of the most common reasons for dogs to beg is for food. Often enough you will see your dog coming over right when you’ve sat at your dining table asking for some of that food that is on your plate. The main reason identified for this is optimism. The dog wants what he can smell on your plate which for him is often a lot better than what he gets from his own food.

So, begging is an effective way for dogs to guilt us in to doing what they want – even if it is bad for them. Their hearts aren’t exactly breaking but they do everything they can to make us think they are. The best way to assure that you don’t get swallowed up by those adorable pouting eyes is by discouraging it.

How to Overcome

When you have to deal with a begging dog it can be hard not to give in. Try to keep some of these things in mind and they’ll help you deal with the problem.

First, try to ignore the begging as much as you can. The more attention you give to the dog while he’s begging the more he will expect out of you each time. This will just encourage him more than anything else and that’s not what you want. When you’re eating and the dog begs, don’t pay any attention to him and tell everyone else on the table to do the same thing. The dog can get the wrong idea from more than just his trainer.

Body blocking is a way dogs use to manage their own space and territory issues with other dogs. They can read these body cues in human beings as well so if your body language seems evasive or preventative in any way, your dog will understand it. Block the food by projecting as such at the table in front of your dog when he begs. This might discourage him or attach negative connotations to the act.

Be sure to tell the dog to ‘sit’ or ‘stay’ whichever command you have assigned that will order him to remain where he is. Try to maintain that the dog stays in this position for as long as possible. If he cannot do so with verbal instructions, restrain him with a leash to an immovable object that can ensure he will not climb on top of the table.

Other modes of action might involve isolating the dog to his ‘go to’ area that might include his house or bed. This will depend upon any other disciplining techniques you have perfected with your dog. If the dog refuses to stay in this place, calmly approach him and order him to stay in the area.

Be as patient as you can, your dog will take some time to understand what he is being taught. A last resort is to remove him from the area that induces the begging. If the dog begs for food do not allow him access to the table area where the food can be seen.

At times you might feel like you want to share your food with your dog but this goes against the no sharing at the table policy discussed earlier. One way to manage this is to give your dog food from the table, while at the same ensuring that the dog is not necessarily at the table. If you can convince your dog that he will not be given any food unless he stays a couple of feet away from the table your dog will not resolve to beg for any food when you are at the table, instead he might patiently await some treats away from it leaving you to eat in peace.

Prevention

There isn’t any one method that you can adopt to stop your dog from begging. Each time a dog begs for a different reason, you have to come up with ways to make sure that that trigger does not make him do so. As previously acknowledged, begging is very common for most dogs to react when you have food that they want. So let’s look at some things you can do manage begging at the dining table.

There are a few ways to ensure that the dog does not beg for food at the dinner table when you are eating. One of the most important things to do is to make sure that you do not give the dog any food from the table. If you do at some point do so it will create a precedent for the dog to believe that your lunch or dinner time is also an opportunity for him to eat. It will also get him used to food which is not necessarily healthy for him. Another useful tip is to feed your dog before you have dinner so that he isn’t hungry while you eat.

To be prepared before the dog starts begging try training your dog when the table is empty and there is no food present. By slowly introducing food and maintaining the dog’s behavior does not change, gradually you can ensure that the dog does not beg when dinner time rolls around for you.

Summary

So what we’ve learned is that begging is more than being needy, it’s more like emotional blackmail by dogs who have discovered how to get what they want and making us feel sorry for them. It is a masterful ploy to appeal to our sympathy which is quite effective. It should however be noted that it in no way should be taken for granted so if your dog is trying to get your attention then give him some time and assess the situation before you decide that it is just the common act of begging.

The ways to counteract begging are numerous but the main idea remains the same; never do anything to encourage your dog to think he has to beg to get what he wants. Since begging is most commonly faced during meal times, adapt the main idea into your behavior and training, and look for ways to stop the dog from thinking that begging will get what he wants.

Introduction:

Barking is natural and dogs bark to communicate with each other. One of the good reasons that dogs bark is because they see a stranger and want to alert their owners. However, sometimes excessive barking of dogs can be troublesome, and that should be prevented. Some dogs bark without any reason, and that too excessively. If your dog barks a lot, you should first find out the causes which lead to its barking, and then find ways to prevent it. The longer a dog has been permitted its barking behavior, the longer it will take to overcome it. Some of the techniques discussed in this post will help you overcome the barking behavior of a dog, and will also prevent this behavior in the future.

Types of problems:

Dogs bark for many reasons and the main reason is that they want attention. Dogs bark when they are stressed, lonely, aggressive, want to play, or when they see a stranger. A dog barks more loudly when it wants to play, but a dog who is lonely or bored will bark slowly with intervals. A dog who wants to convey a threat will bark continuously, even for an hour without a pause. So it all depends upon the intensity and the way your dog barks, and it’s your duty to figure out what is making him bark. The following are some effective ways to overcome barking behavior in dogs:

How to overcome excessive barking in dogs?

Remove motivations:

Your dog barks because he gets some motivation or reward after doing so. Otherwise, he won’t do it. Your job is to analyze and figure out what motivates him to bark. If you ignore this behavior, you will make your dog used to it. This lack of response will be taken by them as an opportunity to continue barking. If they bark at strangers or other people who pass by your house, keep your dog inside your house and close the curtains. Never leave your dog unsupervised at any time of the day.

Desensitize your dog:

Desensitizing is also an effective technique and can be used in situations when you can’t remove the cause or motivations for which the dog is barking. In such situations, you have to make your dog used to what is causing it to bark. The stimulus should be introduced gradually and from a distance to make sure the dog doesn’t bark at it. Give him his favorite things such as treats and food that he loves to eat, and then move the stimulus closer. This way the dog will learn that the stimulus is not harmful and its presence will make him get treats. This method can be very helpful when your dog feels threatened by a member of the house or someone from your relatives or friends who often come to visit your place.

Create distractions:

Creating distraction is another good technique for overcoming your dog’s barking behavior. Some dogs will stop barking the minute they feel distracted while others will take some more time to take their mind off barking. You can use distractions or interruptions such as a loud noise, usually a verbal command or use an object that creates loud sound. It isn’t necessary that you have to make a big distraction, in fact, you can use any object near you to distract your dog. The thing to remember is that you shouldn’t let your dog know that you are the one creating interruption, but it should feel that it happened because of his barking. So, if you want to throw an object, make sure that it doesn’t hit the dog and if you are creating noise, do it from another room or some place where you are out of his sight.

Teach your dog to bark on command:

Training your dog properly can also reduce his habit of excessive barking. A good technique to teach him discipline is to make him listen to your commands. Command your dog to speak and then wait for him to bark for three or four times and then bring a yummy treat in front of him. When your dog will stop barking and starts sniffing the treat, appreciate him and offer him the treat. Then again ask him to speak and when he barks for some time, offer him a treat again. Now that your dog has learned how to bark on command make him learn to keep quiet when you order too. You can make him practice this buy asking him to speak and then interrupt and say ‘quiet’ and then offer the treat.

Use a bark collar:

Bark collars are a smart way to interrupt your dogs from barking. These collars automatically set off a distraction as soon as your dog starts barking. Some bark collars create noise while others create electric simulation between the points where the dog is wearing them. The electronic bark collars work the best. However, we recommend that you ask a professional before you use it.

How to prevent your dog from barking?

If your dog is a disciplined one and listens to your commands, you should make sure that he remains like that and doesn’t develop any bad barking behavior in the future. Following are some tips to prevent barking behavior in future:

• Keep your dog tired most of the time and make sure that he isn’t bored. Your dog should be involved in various physical activities and games so that he doesn’t react to the stimuli which cause him to bark. Take your dog for a walk daily and involve him in outdoor activities. If your dog barks when he sees other dogs, make him learn to play with them.
• Pay your dog enough attention so that he doesn’t bark to crave your attention. Some dogs want to be near their owners all the time, and when they feel that their owner is ignoring them, they start barking and make a routine to do so.
• Never shout, scold, or hit your dog because this will make him more aggressive and eventually he will develop barking habit when he feels threatened or depressed. Make sure your dog is not depressed and is getting all that he needs.
• Always keep an eye on your dog’s mental and physical health. Make sure that he is getting proper diet and that he is not going through a medical condition that is disturbing him and can lead to barking.

Conclusion:

Teaching your dog good behavior and discipline from the start is very important, and this can play a key role in your dog’s behavior and upbringing. Barking is a behavior that can be corrected, and thus it should be done at an early stage. If you feel helpless, you can also consult a professional or make your dog join dog training programs and classes where trainers help the dog overcome their bad behaviors such as barking, humping, or being violent. Make your dog learn to communicate in other pleasant ways such as gentle barking for two three times, or wagging his tail. Always make sure that you don’t get angry or aggressive while correcting your dog’s barking behavior.

Should I Get A Dog?

44% of Americans own a dog, so it’s unsurprising that a common debate is whether or not you should get a dog, too. Getting a dog should not be a spur-of-the-moment decision; there are a lot of things to take into account.

Dogs are huge responsibilities. They’re basically helpless, and they never grow out of that stage; you have to care for them and make sure that they can take care of themselves.

However, similar to a child, making the decision to buy or adopt a dog can be very rewarding, too. Dogs are called “man’s best friend” for a reason.

While making the decision of whether or not to own a dog, you should weigh the pros and cons.

The pros:

• Companionship! This is the main reason for why so many people have dogs, and why they’re called “man’s best friend”—they make excellent companions. Dogs are known for being ridiculously loyal. It doesn’t matter if you accidentally step on their tail or give them a much-hated bath; they’ll still come back to you with their tail wagging, ready to romp with you, and they always have more love to give. They feel like real friends, they are always available, and they are terrific listeners.

 

• Health! Dogs are great for your health. Besides for being able to sniff out life-threatening illnesses, like cancer or an imminent seizure, dogs will greatly improve your health in general. Studies show that people who have a dog are less likely to get heart attacks, lower blood pressure caused by mental stress, and are in general great for getting exercise. (One study found that dog owners are 60% more likely to get the recommended amount of exercise per week.) They can even boost your immune system!

 

• Mental and emotional wellbeing! Dogs can overall improve mental and emotional wellbeing. Studies have shown reduced signs of anxiety and depression in dog owners, as well as reduced stress levels. The science doesn’t lie!

 

• Being social! Studies show that dog owners have higher self-esteem and are better at resilience after a social rejection, and they tend to feel less lonely, reducing feelings of social isolation. Dog owners also often meet each other during walks and such, so other than just feeling more social, dog owners actually tend to be more social.

 

• You’re happy! Dogs literally make you happier. One study monitored how many times people laughed in a day, and dog owners scored much higher than non-dog-owners. Dog owners are also less depressed and lonely, less stressed, and in general have better mental and emotional wellbeing than people who don’t own dogs. Also, interacting with your dog can spike your oxytocin levels, a chemical in your body that makes you feel happy, similar to how you might feel when interacting with a baby.

 

• Cuddling! Dogs are great cuddle buddies! If your dog is small enough, it can curl up on your lap; if it’s not, you guys can still lie down next to each other. Dogs love to be petted and cuddled, and they’re always down for a cuddle session.

 

• Cuteness! Dogs are downright adorable to the point of making your heart melt, and honestly, who doesn’t like the “warm and fuzzy” feeling that accompanies the rush of oxytocin that occurs upon laying eyes on your beloved puffbutt? If you fawn over your dog when your dog is a puppy, beware that this will not wear off.

 

The cons:

• Responsibilities! Dogs are huge responsibilities. You must make sure your dog is fed and watered, caught up on hygiene, up-to-date with all shots, and well-loved and cared for. You also have to clean up your dog’s messes, including when it slips up and pees or poops in the wrong place, and unlike a child, your dog is fine with intentionally throwing up on your expensive, one-of-a-kind rug. They are similar to small children in this respect, and worse, they do not grow out of most of these things. They will never reach the age of being able to get their own food or brush their own teeth or bathe themselves; you will be forever destined to take care of them.

 

• Vet visits! Vet visits are a huge part of having a dog. Vet visits are an expensive—yet necessary—evil. Worse, if your dog is acting strange in any way, it’s your responsibility to take them to the vet and figure out what’s wrong. Your dog can’t speak; it can’t tell you if something’s wrong, and if you notice abnormal behavioral patterns in your dog, it also can’t tell you what’s wrong. Sometimes, your dog will get sick and you will be compelled to pay $700 USD for a vet visit, only to find out that your dog never needed the visit in the first place and will get better on its own. (These expensive emergency visits are also why people buy pet insurance, though that doesn’t mean that they won’t be a financial strain anyway.)

 

• Fear and allergies! Many people are afraid of dogs. It doesn’t matter if your dog appears as a five-pound, fluffy white throw pillow; people will be afraid of it, and they will cower in fear. Similarly, many people are allergic to dogs, and it is for these reasons that you will often have to lock your dog up or otherwise keep it away from visiting guests.

 

• They’re a drain on your finances! I’ve already covered how ridiculously expensive vet visits are, especially unexpected ones; throw in food, toys, overall gear (like leashes and collars), and cleaning supplies. You need to seriously think about whether your wallet can handle that kind of strain.

 

• You need to be home a lot! Dogs keep you rooted. You need to feed them, walk them, and bathe them. You can’t just leave them alone and expect them to be okay if someone visits a couple of times a day. It’s okay to leave them at home for an afternoon or with a sitter if you’re going on the occasional vacation, but if you regularly leave the house for long periods of time (say, longer than a day), getting a sitter all the time just isn’t viable, and you won’t be able to provide a very good home for your pooch.

 

• It’s a commitment! Your dog isn’t a hamster; it won’t die after two or three years. When you get a dog, you’re facing the reality that you will probably own this dog for a dozen years or so. You can’t get a dog just for college, and you shouldn’t get a dog if you’re planning an eventual upheaval where you move far away and go on a crazy adventure.

 

• Fights! If you have children, they may end up fighting over your dog and who gets to cuddle it or sleep with it or pet it. They will also probably make the classic argument when you originally buy the dog: I’ll walk it and feed it and clean up after it! Pllleeeaaaassseee? Well, trust me when I say that they won’t. For the first few weeks, sure. The second you show a sign of being attached, your children suddenly make themselves scarce when it comes time to walk, feed, or otherwise care for your dog.

So, we’re back to where we started:

Should you get a dog?

Firstly, a piece of advice: If someone from your family has an allergy, that doesn’t mean that it is impossible to buy a dog. If your family member has an allergy to the fur and not the actual animal, there are hypoallergenic dogs out there for the very purpose of being best buds with humans who have an allergy to dogs. So, don’t assume that, if a family member is allergic, it’s game over. I personally have an allergy to dogs, yet I own an adorable, hypoallergenic fuzzykinz. Have hope. (If you want a hypoallergenic dog that is small, white, around twelve pounds, and can be mistaken for a blanket or pillow, going for a dog that is a toy poodle/bichon mix is a safe bet.)

Secondly and similarly, if a family member fears your dog, it is also not the end of the world. Several people who are normally terrified of dogs warmed up to my dog when they got to know her. The reason is that my family owns a dog that is small and harmless, and many (though unfortunately not all) people who get to know my dog are charmed by her cuteness and harmlessness. (Again, if you want a dog like this, I mentioned the exact breed in the paragraph above.)

So, now that we’ve gotten the “fear/allergies” con out of the way, we still have to face the question of whether or not to get a dog.

The short answer is a simple it depends; the long one is the process of weighing the pros and cons so that they fit your individual situation. You may have a lot of delicate rugs that you can’t afford to get pee or barf on; you may not have children, or they may not fight often; you may yearn for a cuddle buddy.

Also, if you decide to get a dog, you also have to make the decision of whether to buy or adopt the dog. It is recommended to adopt; the argument that you want a puppy can be refuted by pointing out that shelters also have puppies. Furthermore, adopting a dog saves both the life of the dog you’re adopting and the life of the dog that the shelter now has the room to take in.

The dog may also have already gotten its shots, and it might even be potty-trained. And finally, when you adopt a dog from a shelter, you are denying that business to a store. Stores usually get their dogs from puppy mills, which are known to keep their dogs in revolting and unhealthy conditions; they force the mothers to breed as many times as possible, they keep the dogs in extremely filthy and cramped conditions, they would rather kill a dog than provide medical service to it, and they separate puppies from their mothers way earlier than they should. In other words, puppy mills need to be put out of business.

As it is, dogs make wonderfully sweet, adorable companions that will never leave your side, and though they may be big responsibilities, they may also bring more happiness and love to your life. I wish you the best in making the decision of getting a new addition to the family!

 

Dog Body Language 101: The Ultimate Guide to Interpreting Non-Verbal Canine Language

Ok, really…

Wouldn’t it be great if dogs talked, like converse in human languages?

It’d take out a truckload of the guesswork and uncertainty associated with consistently trying to read your dog’s feelings, actions, and what not.

But:

Even if that were possible in an alternate universe, verbal communication is but one form of communication. Non-verbal communication is just as important, if not more, even between humans.

In fact, according to human behavior experts, over 80% (that’s huge) of human communication is understood by interpreting non-verbal behaviors and cues.

I wouldn’t attempt to extrapolate that stat for human-canine communication, but the undeniable fact is that dogs are just as likely to express their emotional state, motivations, and intentions through non-verbal signals.

And it is a no-brainer why it is important to have the ability to understand these signals and vibes, holistically referred to as dog body language. Your ability to maintain top-level communication confidently and safely with your dog (part of which is the ability to read your dog’s vocal and non-vocal signals) is the very foundation of your owner-canine relationship.

Thankfully, reading a dog’s body language is not an impossible prospect.

Primary modes of sending non-verbal signals

It starts with identifying how a dog primarily sends non-verbal signals.

To draw an analogy, humans send non-verbal signals using different parts of the body, such as:

• A nod of the head,
• A wink of the eyes,
• Reddening of the cheeks,
• Gesticulating with hands,
• Overall body posture, stance, and/or gait

Like human body language, canines use specific body parts for primary non-vocal communication. These parts include:

• Head; primarily the eyes, mouth, and ears
• Tail
• Hair
• Using the entire body to make a reflective posture

Eyes

The three factors to note when observing your dog’s eyes are:

• Size of his eyes,
• Direction of his gaze, and
• Intensity of his gaze

Size

Dogs have different eye shapes—round, almond, oval, triangular; dimensions; coloration; and retinal configurations. However, the more important attribute to watch out for is the relative size of a dog’s eyes—the relative size can tell a lot about his mood and emotional state.

A relaxed, happy dog has no reason to alter the normal shape of his eyes, and wouldn’t. Things change however, when there is a stimulus.

• If the dog perceives this stimulus to be a threat, he’d typically respond by making his eyes appear larger
• If the stimulus is fright, stress, pain, or illness, then the eyes would seem smaller than usual and may even appear as a squint
• Sometimes, there needn’t be a stimulus for a dog to squint his eyes. Dogs usually squint when making a submissive grin, which is an appeasement gesture.

Direction and intensity of gaze

Between dogs, eye-to-eye contact isn’t a regular feature. It’s typically reserved for confrontations and prelude to rumbles. However, dogs learn it is ok to look directly at people.

• And typically one of the fondest memories you’d have of your dog is him looking at you with cute puppy eyes and a relaxed facial expression. He does this when he is being friendly and wants you to notice him.
• You’d be damned however if you came across a dog that gave you same direct gaze but with a tense stare. This is most likely a threat and you want to look away slowly.
• A dog does not always give a direct stare with tense facial expression to indicate readiness to become aggressive. He may give a “whale eye,” which involves him looking out of his eyes’ corners and you see much of his eyes’ whites.

You are most likely to get a whale eye when the dog is guarding a resource—toy, chew bone, or favorite spot.

• You should note that a whale eye is different from a sideway glance. A dog giving a sideway glance would not appear tense or rigid, and you wouldn’t see as much of his eyes’ whites.
• In some other scenarios, a dog would avert his gaze when you look at him. This may be a signal that he is being submissive. It may also be a signal that he is concerned about interacting with you (this may be as a result of him not having confidence to deal with people, due to an unpleasant history with people).

Mouth

As regards reading the non-vocal language of a dog’s mouth, you want to pay attention to the positioning of his lips, jaws, and teeth in tandem.

• A relaxed, happy dog would typically shut his mouth or open it slightly. If he keeps his mouth open, it is likely that he is panting (how dogs regulate their temperature), and you’d prolly see his teeth.
• A fearful dog may horizontally draw his lips back in a way that make his lips tight at the corners of the mouth. Possible display of his front (canines and incisors) and back teeth (premolars and molars) accompany this lip positioning.
• Dogs might yawn in an exaggerated fashion if they’re feeling uptight.
• A dog would also typically shut his mouth when he feels frightened or submissive. Furthermore, you’d prolly notice one or more of the following: lips slightly pulled back at the corners, in and out flicking of his tongue, or licking when interacting with another animal or a person.
• If the feeling of submissiveness is excessive, some dogs would make a ‘submissive grin.’ It involves lifting the lips up vertically and displaying the front teeth. Some people would mistake this grin as an aggressive gesture, when it is the exact opposite.
• You’re less likely to mistake a dog’s mouth positioning when he is aggressive. He’d typically retract his lips and prominently show his teeth. When he’s giving a warning not to intrude, he’d likely lift up his lips vertically, which will put his front teeth on display, and at the same time wrinkle the top of his muzzle.
• A dog that is ready to bite would usually push his lips up and back to open his mouth and expose his teeth.
• Another aggressive mouth positioning is an ‘aggressive pucker.’ This involves pushing the lips forward over the teeth, then exhaling air to make the lips appear large and puffy. Sometimes, you’d notice the dog breathing heavily and he may have a wrinkled forehead. A dog would typically give this signal when he doesn’t want you to get closer.

Ears

Some of us have the exciting ability to wiggle their ears. For dogs though, it is more of a standard trait. And you can use the ear positioning of your dog to ascertain his underlying emotional state.

• A relaxed, comfortable dog will hold his ears in its natural position.
• Should he be alert or curious, you’d notice him raise his ears higher and position them in the direction of whatever is piquing his interest.
• A dog feeling aggressive would raise his ears up and forward.
• When he wants to be friendly, he would pull his ears back slightly.
• A dog feeling frightened or submissive would usually stick out his ears to the sides of his head or keep his ears completely flattened.

Tail

For most people, the default interpretation of a wagging tail is happiness and friendliness. Sure, this is often true, but not always. A dog uses its tail to give off a range of signals, some of which are easy to miss.

Dog breeds have different tail lengths, forms, and sizes. Ultimately, the type of tail a dog has influences his ability to express himself using his tail. This is particularly important to note since some breeders and owners perform tail docking on their dogs. It is not only often painful; it also impedes the ability of a dog to communicate properly with his tail.

• A relaxed dog will hold his tail in its natural position.
• And when he is happy, you’ll notice the familiar side-to-side gentle wagging. The wagging will be more forceful and may even be in a circular pattern if he is very happy, which often happens when you and your dog reconnect after being apart for a long time.
• A dog would also wag his tail from side to side if he is submissive or nervous. Alternatively, he might hold his tail lower or even tuck his tail between his rear legs. If he is being extremely submissive or scared, you’d notice him hold his tail against his belly.
• You may also observe tail movement when a dog is threatening another animal or a person, or he is standing his ground. Called a ‘flag,’ this tail movement involves holding his tail high and stiff, and moving it back and forth rigidly.

Although, it may appear like he is waggling his tail, the signals he’d give with other body parts would be anything but friendly.

• An alert or aroused dog wouldn’t move his tail. Rather, he’d usually hold it higher than normal, stiff, and without any movement.

Hair

A dog using his hair to give a signal would do either of two things:

• Shed, or
• Raise his hair

Dogs shed hair in copious amount when they are fearful or stressed. A typical instance where you’d notice this is during a visit to your vet. If your dog is nervous during one of these visits, you’d find that your dog’s hair would be all over the vet and the table.

Another way dogs respond when they are scared or nervous is to raise their hackles. The scientific term is piloerection. Both are fancy ways to refer to a dog raising his hair when he is aroused about something. You could compare it to a person having goose bumps.

Typically, the dog would raise the hair over the ridge where the shoulder blades meet (withers). But many dogs are capable of raising the hair all along their spine. Dogs raise their hackles to appear larger and would typically also release odor from glands in the hair follicles.

Piloerection could be an indication of a variety of emotional states—anger, uncertainty, excitement, fear, or insecurity about something.

Whole Body Posture

Dogs use their body to communicate intentions by either appearing:

• Normal,
• Smaller, or
• Larger

Normal

You’d expect a relaxed, contented, and happy dog to maintain their normal body size. He would relax his muscles in a normal fashion and balance his weight evenly on all four feet.

Even if he is in a good mood with quite a bit of bouncing or running with exaggerated movements, the relaxation of his muscles and facial expression will look natural.

Smaller

• A fearful or frightened dog would adjust his overall appearance to look small. This might involve him lowering his body, cowering on the ground, and/or holding his head low.

He’ll also attempt to avoid whatever is making him frightened. For example, if he is scared on an examination table, he will recoil away from the vet, preferring instead to lean into you.

• You’ll observe a submissive dog behave similarly to convey the message that he is not a threat. Like a fearful dog, he may lower his body or cower on the ground. However, he may raise his head if he is greeting another animal or a person.
• An uncertain but curious dog would take a slightly altered approach. He’ll adopt a stance you’ll consider careful—approaching tentatively to whatever he is curious about and centering his weight over his rear legs. This is so he can make a quick retreat/exit should there be the need to.

Larger

• An aroused, alert, or assertive dog would adjust his appearance to look large. You would observe his muscle become tense, he’d stand erect and may even be on his tiptoes, and he’d raise his head and neck above his shoulders.

Furthermore, he’d center his weight over his four feet or he’d leaning slightly forward on his front legs.

• An aggressive, angry dog would also appear large. This is because he wants to appear as intimidating as possible. And he’d give off other aggressive threats in addition to adopting a posture that an aroused, alert, or assertive dog would make.

However, he’d typically center his weight over his front legs (unlike a curious dog that is careful). This is so he can make a quick dash or charge forward rapidly.

An holistic, peculiar approach to reading your dog’s body language

When a dog communicates with his body, he’d usually use more than one body part to send signals. This isn’t necessarily complicating the message, but expressing it better.

For example, a dog making a ‘submissive grin’ would lift up his lips vertically and display his front teeth. Solely considering this, it is possible to misinterpret the mouth positioning as a sign of aggressiveness. But, you’d better understand the signal of submissiveness when you observe other body parts—lowering of his head, squinting of his eyes, and yelping or whining.

This instance underscores why reading a dog’s body language should be done holistically. Even if the message is subtle, with careful attention to the primary parts used for non-verbal communication (and sometimes vocal forms of communication—barking, whining, et cetera) you can recognize and interpret the message.

The different common canine non-verbal vibes

1. Happy, Playful

Relaxed, Contented, Happy, Playful

It is fun to be around a happy dog. There is no tension, his body is relaxed and fluid, nothing is unusual about his mouth or body posture, and the vibe you get is confidence, joy, and readiness for play and attention.

Observations

• Eyes are natural, blinking, or squinty
• Mouth is closed or opened slightly, tongue is relaxed and may be drooping to one side, and he may be pant with a regular tempo. Mouth corners (commissure) may be slightly raised like a makeshift smile.

When playful, he might growl or make high-pitched barks.

• Ears are natural
• Entire facial expression is neutral as his facial muscles are relaxed.

When he is playful, you might notice a “play face.” This involves him opening the mouth partially to appear as though he is smiling.

• Tail may be held in natural position or wagged from side to side or in a circular motion
• He may wiggle his back side
• Overall physique is natural and he might turn over to invite a belly rub

He may also invite play or at least give indication that he is in a playful mood (and as such following actions shouldn’t be taken seriously) by making a “play bow.” This involves him bouncing with his forelegs on the ground and hind legs extended to make his rear stick up.

Body movements would be bouncy or jerky. He may also bounce in exaggerate twists, leaps, and turns. Jumping on you and mouthing aren’t ruled out. During play, he may have small body freezes.

Excited

This vibe is intense and similar to what you’d get off him when he is alert or playful. You’d notice that he is prepped for action.

Observations

• Eyes are natural and he is transfixed on the source of his excitement, mouth is often open and he may bark, ears are up
• Tail is held high, and wagging may or may not occur
• Size is natural and he may center his weight over his rear legs in preparation to move

2. Fearful, Nervous, Stressed

Discomfort, fearful, nervous, stressed

A nervous, fearful, or stressed dog would give off signals that serve either of two purposes:

• relieve the stress, or
• appease the perceived threat

Observations

• Eyes are transfixed on the threat or the dog might turn his head away as an appeasement gesture
• He might yawn in an exaggerated way; flick his tongue; lick his lips; engage in raspy, dry-sounding pant; or drool
• Ears are flattened back on his skull
• Facial muscles are rigid and tense—curved eyebrows, furrowed brow, tense jaw with mouth closed, twitching whiskers
• Tail is held low or tucked between the rear legs
• Piloerection may occur
• Overall body size is smaller as he keeps his body hunched. Additionally, he may cower close to the ground, center his weight over his rear legs while leaning should he have to make a hasty retreat, or lean to the side in anticipation of having to recoil.

His body may freeze briefly, or until the threat goes away or he decides to engage in fight or flight. You may also notice him shaking and he may have sweaty paws.

Fearful Aggressiveness

A fearfully aggressive dog has about the same appearance as a fearful dog. The fearfully aggressive stance is an escalation from just being fearful or an alternative response to appeasement.

Not all dogs will resort to aggression when they are fearful, but some will see that as the only available choice if he feels trapped with no obvious avenues for escape.

Body size will still be smaller and he’d continue to cower. However, he’d begin to show his teeth and might snarl or growl. Any bite or snap from him will be lightening quick, followed by an equally quick retreat as far away from the threat as he can get.

Some dogs would not bite until they notice the threat retreating, and then they’ll go at the threat in an attempt to nip from behind.

Displacement

In the face of a perceived threat, dogs may also engage in behavior that’d provide self-calm and/or divert attention to something else other than them. For instance, a dog sniffing the ground would get the threat to focus on the act of sniffing rather than the dog himself or any negative intention.

A dog may also engage in these behaviors when he desires an outlet to eschew pent up frustration or energy. Sometimes, displacement actions can be the underlying reason for exhibiting compulsive behaviors, such as excessive licking or spinning.

Observations

• sniffing or sneezing,
• yawning, licking the nose, or chattering the teeth
• pacing, spinning, or shaking the body in a way that mimics getting water off their back

3. Aggressive

Dominance

A dog exhibiting dominant behavior wouldn’t appear assertive but not overly aggressive, although it can be a precursor to aggressiveness.

Observations

• Eyes are locked on the subject of his attention
• Mouth is typically closed, although he may growl
• Ears are raised and have a forward orientation
• Tail is rigid and high. He may flag or quiver the tail at its end.
• Piloerection may or may not occur
• Overall body posture is adjusted in a way to appear larger, including standing tall and sometimes on tiptoes, distributing his weight squarely on all four feet or he may slightly lean forward, arching his neck, and appearing tense

Dog Fears And Phobia And How To Overcome Them

Defensively Aggressive

A dog that encounters a perceived or actual threat would be either submissive or aggressive. Both are natural responses to ensure individual safety.

An aggressive dog typically gives off the “back off and let me be” vibe, and would often give lots of warning in a defensive posture to prevent physical altercation. You’d notice a mix of fearful and aggressive postures when a dog is defensively aggressive.

In general, this posture is sometimes a bluff, as the dog may opt to retreat if things escalate. However, for some dogs, the next course of action following this posture depends on the prevailing level of confidence and fear they feel.

Observations

• Lips are drawn back, teeth are visible, and you may or may not notice wrinkling of the muzzle. Furthermore, he’d usually bark (often high-pitched), snarl, or growl.
• Ears are up and oriented forward
• Tail is rigid and held high
• You may notice piloerection
• Overall body figure would appear larger, and he may center his weight variedly depending on the situation—it may be squarely on all four legs, just the forelegs, or only the rear legs.

How he centers his weight would depend on proximity to the threat and intention—to retreat, charge forward, or stand his ground.

Offensively Aggressive

The feeling of anger and confidence is often a potent cocktail to spark offensively aggressive body language.

The intention is clear; he is to give all he’s got in an all-out attack. After he lashes out, whether he continues or stops has little to do with the reaction of the focus (animal or person) of his attack.

Observations

• Eyes are transfixed at the focus of his attack
• Lips are retracted vertically and muzzle is wrinkled to show his teeth. He’d also bark (in a tone that is low but threatening), snarl, or growl.
• Ears are up and have a forward orientation
• Tail is raised high, rigid, and may be flagged
• He may raise his hackles
• Body posture that appears larger with head held high and weight centered over the forelegs in readiness to charge or lunge forward.

4. Curious, Aroused

Curious, anticipatory

The natural response for a dog to any situation is to size it up to ensure safety. Curious body language oozes caution. And the degree to which a dog is curious depends on his confidence level.

You’d typically notice the dog keeping his mouth closed and he may cock his head to one side. Furthermore, he may lift his front paw in anticipation of what would happen next.

Alert

An alert dog isn’t necessary curious, at least not immediately. A dog is curious when he musters the confidence to explore the subject of his curiosity, after a brief moment of being at alert.

Understandably, the demeanor of an alert dog is to be focused and intense.

Observations

• Eyes stare at the reason why he is alert
• Closed mouth, although he may bark or growl
• Raised ears pointing forward
• Erect head and neck
• Rigid, immobile tail may stay in the natural position, raised vertically, or raised over the back
• Piloerection may or may not occur
• Maintains an upright stance and weight is centered on all four legs

Aroused

When a dog gives off an aroused vibe, it is quite easy to confuse it as being alert or excited. For the most part, it isn’t an important distinction to make.

However, one instance where making the distinction is crucial is when the source of the arousal pushes a dog closer to feeling aggressive or frightened. In which case, his body language varies depending on how he feels—fearful, angry, or uncertain.

The reason why a dog is aroused may or may not be noticeable to you. For example, it could be an odor or sound that you can’t sense.

Observations

• Eyes may or may not be transfixed at the reason for his arousal
• Ears may be positioned forward or flattened to the side
• Tail may be held high, in the normal position, or low, depending on prevailing emotional state
• Piloerection is typically a given
• Body posture may be normal or adjusted to appear larger

5. Appeasement, Submissive

Dogs would not always be happy, confident, defensive, or aggressive. Sometimes, they recognize their limitations and know their best option is to stand down and let the other party have his way.

A dog willing to make this concession would display appeasement, deference, displacement, or submissive behavior. In general, while a socially experienced dog and human receiving the signals would tolerate and reciprocate with appropriate signals, a less experienced dog would interpret the signals wrongly and instead reciprocate with inappropriate signals, such as dominant or aggressive behavior.

A dog may either engage in:

• active, or
• passive submission

Active submission observations

• Avert eye gaze away from the other party
• Licking, flicking, or nuzzles of the tongue
• Ears are flattened and held by the sides of the head
• Tail is low or tucked and may be waggling in back and forth motion
• Body posture is adjusted to appear smaller as he hunches over and gets close to the ground
• Some dogs, usually puppies, would also urinate

Passive submission observations

• Avert eye gaze as well
• Might engage in whining
• May lie still or roll over on his back to display his genitalia
• He may also paw at the other party or urinate (usually puppies)

25 Ways to Save Money on Dog Expenses: The Ultimate Guide to Saving on Dog Care, Food, Grooming, Supplies, and Health

Rising costs

Just how much do you spend on your dog?

Take a moment to mull over that question and come up with a number. You may not be sure you want to know, but for many of us, the answer may not necessarily be a number, it could be two words—a lot.

In 2016, the American Pet Products Association (APPA) estimated that U.S. dog owners would spend above $1,500 annually to care for Fido. That figure had been rising since the APPA start compiling stats in 1994. Vets place their estimate closer to $2,000 annually.

If you tallied that over a dog’s lifetime, it amounts to between $20,000 and $40,000, depending on factors like size, amount of food consumed, breed et cetera.

It is well worth it

Don’t take this wrongly. Most of us spare no expense to care for our pets and for good reason. The unconditional companionship and love they give you as well as the special connection you share is priceless.

That, notwithstanding:

We all have (or at least should have) budgets. And if you are consistently entering red territory because of pet care expenses, then you have an understandable reason to want to trim your pet-related spending.

Besides, who wouldn’t want a bargain, which would no doubt free money for other vital expenses?

Doing it right

Thing is, in your attempt to cut spending, you do not want to sacrifice the quality of life of your pooch. That is counter-productive. And you’d have to accept that there are situations when it’d be inevitable to rack up huge bills, such as when things go unexpectedly wrong.

Thankfully, there are several ways to make savings without jeopardizing the health and happiness of your canine. Most of it falls under indulging in preventative care, smarter routine spending, and acquiring better information.

Save from the get go

1. Adopt from a shelter

Sure, you may have your concerns:

• You know virtually nothing about the dog’s heritage or history
• You prefer a purebred dog

But, the plus points are very significant:

• The big one is the heavy price discount you’d get when you adopt a dog. You’d typically not have to foot some of the costly expenses for new dogs.
• You’d be rescuing a pet
• And if you insist on purebreds, one in four shelter dogs are purebreds

If you are on an economy drive, say you are in heavy debt; adoption is an excellent option to take.

2. Buy based on your budget and lifestyle

You cannot base the decision of what dog breed you get entirely on attractiveness. Many people do this, but it can be the harbinger of issues in the future. It is a factor, but there are several other factors to consider. They include:

• likely care costs
• potential health issues
• temperament
• exercise needs

This is the point when you have to engage in a realistic self-talk. You have to aggregate relevant information about care and health expenses of the breed you’re interested in, and ask yourself—Would I be able to maintain optimal health and offer top-quality care to a/an [insert breed here]?

To access this information, you can take advantage of online breed quizzes that use details such as lifestyle, budgeting, time or health constraints, and more to give you a rough idea of what dog breed(s) would fit you best.

3.Draw up a pet budget

You should have a sub-budget for pet-related expenses, for the same reasons you have a budget for personal living expenses. Having a budget would put a kibosh (or at least make it a priority) on impulsive buying and make you think hard about the cost-value ratio of the dog products and services you regularly spend on.

That said, it is good financial practice to have an emergency pet fund. It may or may not be part of your personal emergency fund, but it is necessary to have it. The future is hard to predict, and you have no idea when an unexpected illness may occur, hidden costs may pop, or you may have to indulge in miscellaneous expenses (for instance, hiring a dog walker if you fall sick for an extended period).

The amount you keep is not as relevant as the fact that you have a fund that would provide at least a buffer in the event of an emergency. The last thing you want is to have a financial panic when an emergency is staring you in the face.

4. Research is important

…Not only to decide on the best dog breed to buy or adopt, but also for most pet-related things.

Whether it is a product, service, or practice, you want to know what others, experts think; and you want to be well informed. This is especially true for products. The pet products market is ballooning and manufacturers are working their production lines to bring products that’d make your pockets lighter.

You stand no chance if the marketing speak and ads are all you consume. You’ll find yourself, spending money like it’s going out of style. You should ALWAYS do your due diligence. Catch up on reviews and feedback to ensure you’re spending with your eyes open.

5. Get your dog spayed or neutered

The facts make the pro-spay/-neuter recommendation unarguable. Studies show that spayed and neutered dogs are less likely to develop behavioral issues and certain medical problems (such as an emergency surgery to remove an infected uterus) that are typically associated with huge pet-related spending.

Then there is the advantage of not having to care for a litter of puppies in the future (which by the way addresses the pet overpopulation problem).

Save on food and treats

6. Do some digging for better deals on dog food

It is no surprise that dog owners spend more on food than on anything else pertaining to pet care (be it toys, grooming, et cetera). Consumer Reports got lots of flak for advising pet owners to go cheap, so we’ll let you decide just how much is “too much” to spend on dog food.

You should do your research as always—comparing labels, ingredients, and reading reviews; and realize that if you’ve got a dog with health-related issues then the range of choices is limited.

That said, you could make clear-cut savings from using coupons or taking advantage of discounts, without having to worry about the potential consequences of changing your dog’s diet.

You can:

• search online for coupons—a simple “[product name] + coupon” search query on Google will throw up lots of interesting results;
• go to your fave food company’s webpage; or
• check websites dedicated to outlining coupons, promotions, and freebies for pets—PetSmart, PetCo, My Pet Savings, and Wag.com. Not that you should ignore the coupon heavyweights like Groupon and RetailMeNot.

In fact, if you haven’t signed up for the newsletter of your favorite brand or store, you are missing out on receiving decent (usually time-sensitive) deals you don’t want to pass up.

Additional tips include:

• taking advantage of loyalty and first-time discounts
• ordering online and taking advantage of many companies offering free shipping
• shopping at local pet, livestock, or feed stores rather than at grocery stores

7. Buy in bulk

You shouldn’t only practice this for food, but for other pet needs, like supplies. This is because you’d typically pay less per unit (get more discount) when you buy in bulk.

Even better, you could arrange with a friend or group of friends to combine resources, buy in bulk, and score substantial savings.

8. Prepare dog meals and treats yourself

DIY is a simple unsurprisingly effective trick to save some money. Multiple resources abound online of awesome DIY meal and treat recipes. Sites like PetDIETS and BalanceIT are completely devoted to everything pertaining nutrition and safety of homemade diet and treat recipes.

That said, you should be careful about how you go about DIY meals and treats. A badly prepared meal/treat is worse than cheapo purchased meal/treat. In fact, many experts have seen more cases of pets becoming ill from eating badly prepared home meals than from eating cheapo purchased meals.

To be on the safe side, ensure you are finicky about the nutritional value of your homemade dog meals and treats.

9.Spend smartly on dog supplements

Doggy supplements aren’t just random addendums to sometimes boost the nutritional profile of what owners serve their dogs. It is a full-fledged dog product sub-category given standalone isles in pet stores.

Simply succumbing to the marketing about buying more supplements without talking to your vet about the exact benefits isn’t doing your wallet any good. Certainly, in some cases the importance of supplements is indisputable, but in many cases it isn’t exactly “necessary,” and in some others, probably “harmful.”

Your vet is in the best position to advise you on when supplements are okay for when and when they’re just bloating your already hefty list of dog expenses.

10. Get dog chew bones from a local butcher

Rather than buy bones, visit the local butcher and ask for dog bones. You’ll be pleasantly surprised with what you get for $10. Preferably, go for femur bones (so your dog can access marrow from either end).

And if you visit during the bone cutting process, you could make a polite request for them to cut the bones to a preferred size. Alternatively, you can get leftover beef marrowbones from the meat department at your fave supermarket.

The benefits of giving your dog raw bones are immense, but you should also endeavor to do it safely.

Save on health costs

11. An ounce of prevention is better (and cheaper) than a pound of cure

This apt apothegm is just as appropriate for your canine as it is for you. Preventative measures should form an integral part of how you care for Rover. This would forestall critical health problems down the road—that’d be “uncomfortable” to both you and your dog, give your dog better quality of life, and just as importantly, save you hundreds to thousands of dollars.

In addition to carrying out independent research, you should only stick with a vet who is open minded about giving you valuable advice on how to maintain the health of your dog through preventative measures. These measures touch on a range of factors from diets to grooming.

Regular dental care

Periodontal disease is the commonest disease amongst adult dogs. And the real bummer is that is a preventable health condition.

The cost of tooth extractions can climb to $1,000. This is besides the expensive plaque removal sessions and dental exams that you’ll find yourself paying for way too often than you have to. Furthermore, studies identify a relationship between poor oral health and several serious health conditions (such as heart disease) in dogs.

There is no sugarcoating it. If you aren’t taking good dental care of your dog, you’re implicitly ruining his health. Home dental care is inexpensive—prices for dog toothbrush kits start at $5.

You should learn how to brush your dog’s teeth properly, and then make certain that you do so consistently—several times a week for younger pets and once a day for older pets. As part of your annual health visit to the vet for checks, endeavor to have a professional clean.

Avoid obesity

It isn’t great for humans, it isn’t great for dogs. Maintaining a healthy lifestyle for and giving appropriate nutrition to your part is not optional. In 2016, 54% of all dogs in the U.S. were obese, according to the Association for Pet Obesity Prevention. That’s an ugly stat, it is even uglier when one considers that the rate of dog obesity jumped by 10 percentage points in 7 years (it was 44% in 2009).

Excessively feeding your dog might feel like you’re being loving and caring, but it also holds the unintended consequence of reducing the quality of life later in your dog’s lifetime. Overweight and obesity places a dog, like humans, at increased risk of serious health conditions, ranging from arthritis to cancer.

By insisting on a healthy lifestyle and preventing obesity, you are:

• saving money at the moment due to lower dog feeding expense
• avoiding the discomfort to your dog and yourself when he has to suffer challenging health conditions and you having to make multiple trips to the vet
• saving money in the long run that you wouldn’t have to spend on huge vet and med bills

Commit to an annual health check

A widely acknowledged clinical truth is that early detection and diagnosis is crucial for the prevention, management, and treatment of diseases. This is why you should religiously follow an annual health schedule to screen or check your dog comprehensively.

For older dogs or dogs with a chronic health condition, the frequency of checks should increase to a semiannual schedule.

In terms of vaccination, giving your dog regular, repeated vaccines are unnecessary. Rather carry out titer testing (vaccine titers) to ascertain the level of immunity of your dog, rather than just repeatedly pumping him full of vaccines when he is in all likelihood already immune.

12. Dog-proof your home

Dogs will be dogs and that often means they’d explore and munch on anything in sight, with particular preference for your furniture, upholstery, belongings, and several expensive things you wouldn’t want to replace until you have a good reason to.

Spending on replacements is but one reason to be concerned, you may also find yourself racking a huge vet bill from vet visits or surgeries after your dog sends into his alimentary canal toxic substances that shouldn’t be in there.

Dog-proofing your house saves you the stress and money associated with future preventable mishaps. Aside keeping typical toxic substances like antifreeze, chocolate, and plants out of reach, some other pet-proofing tips include:

• Not leaving flat and curling irons “on” when exiting a room
• Keeping pill (including cold medication, vitamins, and painkillers) bottles out of reach as dogs can open many childproof bottles
• Being careful with having lit candles at reachable distances from your pet
• Keeping cleaning supplies out of reach

13.Use technology to keep up

The app industry is firing on all cylinders, and the pet sector isn’t take a back seat. Currently, several apps exist on dominant mobile platforms that make dog care easier.

Now, using apps you can keep track of health needs and information, find out the best walking routes around you, track your dog’s location, maintain a well-ordered schedule so you never miss a flea treatment or forget a vet appointment again, et cetera.

Beyond apps and the mobile ecosystem, you can test your dog’s DNA to have a firm idea of what conditions your pup might likely develop, and adopt preventative measures.

14. Carefully choose a vet

This is a no-brainer, but many dog owners do not necessarily compare local vet clinics before selecting a vet. You want a vet you can comfortably relate with and can provide useful preventative tips and health advice.

After choosing a vet, make certain that s/he is your go-to vet. It is better to develop a long-standing relationship with a vet who’d get to know your dog in toto. In addition, you may even score savings as time progress as vets typically give long-term patients higher discounts.

15. Take advantage of vet short-term promotions

All through the year, vets typically offer several short-term promotions on routine treatments, such as parasite control. You may also want to look out for discounted dental care during National Pet Dental Health Month every February and mobile rabies clinics during each summer.

Furthermore, some vet clinics offer free nurse consultations, so that billing only commences when your dog requires actual treatment or referral to the vet.

16.Take advantage of discounts from vet colleges

You may not like the sound of an unlicensed person handling your pet’s health issue.

But student vets need real life case studies, have the requisite knowledge, and are sufficiently equipped to perform routine procedures like health checks, vaccinations, and health checks.

You’d typically make hefty savings if you take advantage of discounted treatments offered by your local veterinary college.

17. Take advantage of discounts from dog charities and not-for-profit services

Several charities and trust funds would help with routine fund treatment and vet bills for peculiar health conditions in dogs and cats. Breed-specific charities also do their bit by offering financial support for emergency treatment.

Furthermore, you can relate with your local ASPCA (RSPCA in the UK), Humane Society, or rescue shelter to inquire about discounted services. The HumaneSociety and PetMD have plenty of resources and tips on how to get affordable vet care and where to look for free or cheap veterinary clinics.

You could do an independent research by starting with a quick Google search using the “free vet care [insert city here]” string.

Endeavor to do your research before you actually need help. Have the sites and phone numbers penned on a list, so you can quickly establish contact when the need arises.

18. Buy pet insurance

The concept of pet insurance is laudable, after all, estimates point that 92% of all pets may have an emergency during their lifetime. And for some dog owners, buying pet insurance is justifiable.

But:

This isn’t true for everyone. Sure, you can insure your pup while he’s young to keep premiums low, but coverage choices and higher premiums for “high-risk” dog breeds don’t exactly make pet insurance a one-size-fits-all solution.

Alternatively, you may want to consider setting up an emergency fund for your pet. The amount saved wouldn’t always cover the entire emergency costs, but you wouldn’t have to worry about coverage and other insurance policies. At the very least, it’d offset part of the cost.

19. Spend smartly on prescriptions

So, back in 2010/2011, vets received a hard knock for their seemingly outrageous markups. Consumer Reports placed markup estimates in the US as high as 100% to 160%, while DailyMail placed estimates in the UK as high as 500%.

Thankfully, the uproar did lead to long-lasting changes in vet pricing schemes, but the practice of seeking out better deals on meds didn’t go out of fashion. To make considerable savings on meds, ask for a generic prescription and make your purchase at a pet store or online pharmacy.

We recommend that you buy from a Vet-VIPPS accredited pharmacy when buying prescriptions online, as they comply with state and federal quality assurance and licensing requirements, which is a fancy way of saying they would not scam you.

Save on general dog supplies

20. Quality over lowest prices

Everyone loves a bargain. But it shouldn’t be to a penny wise and pound foolish level. Excessive focus on prices can be detrimental in the long run, as long-term expenses cancel out short-term gains.

This principle is applicable to virtually all dog supplies, including training supplies, grooming tools, and general pet accessories (such as collars and leashes).

Sure, you should have and stay within your budget as a matter of financial discipline, but endeavor to buy the highest quality, most durable product within your preferred price range.

21.Make dog toys yourself

I’ll put it out there. Some dog toys just aren’t worth the price tag emblazoned on them. And that’s why you should seriously consider making your dog’s toys yourself. It isn’t prohibitively difficult and you only need to make about 5 to 10 in total.

The reason is that dogs typically have favorites, and would consistently prefer them to alternatives.

Furthermore, you should make certain to rotate his toys—he shouldn’t have access to all of them at any point in time. Keep some tucked away and rotate every week or bi-weekly, so they always appear “new” to him.

Additional tips

• If you insist on buying toys, choose products that are the most indestructible (reviews and customer feedback would come in handy)
• Take your dog when next you go to a garage sale, flea market, or thrift shop. In addition to getting bargains, you could also buy stuffed animals for your pup if he is a shredder (likes to tear things up).

22. Shop online

Everyone has his or her respective takeaways from the online versus offline shopping dogfight. But if you’re interested in making substantial savings while shopping, you know what camp to pitch your tent with.

Online shops like Amazon do not have the traditional overheads of brick-and-mortar stores and can afford to offer you cheaper prices, quick and many times free delivery (especially with Amazon Prime), and a no-hassle refund policy.

Of course, nothing truly beats seeing and feeling things in person at a local pet store, but when you have to buy the product again, a couple of taps on your smartphone is all that is required. You can also take advantage of the ultra-valuable review system when researching products.

23. Consider used items

Earlier, we’ve talked about getting used items at garage sales and flea markets. But those are not the only places where you can get used items—you can check out online sources like eBay, Craigslist, et cetera.

24. Be proactive about your dog bringing in dirt from the outdoors

Go the extra mile to wipe your dog’s paws before he goes indoors after spending time outside. You’ll make savings on household—floor, carpet, and upholstery—cleaning and cleaning supplies.

25. Save on professional services

Whether it is grooming, bathing, or walking your dog; you can learn to do them yourself. It’d take some commitment and patience but you’d eventually get the hang of it.

And even if you can’t roll your sleeves and get in on some DIY action because of practicality reasons (such as advanced dog training) or lack of time; spending smartly is still an acceptable route to go.

Take advantage of discounts

Several dog salons reward regular customers with discounts and free services. You may even buy grooming sessions in blocks to get such rewards. Note that you’d often have to inquire about such discounts as they are not typically advertised.

Apprentice groomers and intending pros just starting out would also often offer discounts. Craigslist and Reddit are good places to scour for beginner groomers around you. You should always exercise care when dealing with strangers.

Scour coupon sites

Coupon sites are like the Mecca of deals. You can get coupons for services in your area. Endeavor to sign up to get alerts for deals around you.

Know your options

Do not simply let your groomer go to town on your dog. It’d typically mean a bunch of services that are not needed, which would inflate your bill.

For example if you’ve given Fide a brush or clipped his nails, then let your dog groomer know you’ve prepared your dog for the session and certain services shouldn’t be part of the session (or inform him/her of the exact services your dog requires).

You should also request for a price list, so you can make an informed decision.

A cut doesn’t have to be expensive

Getting a cut doesn’t have to always be a costly affair. A cut such as a “field” cut can be functional and low-cost.

Use a self-service dog wash

A self-service dog wash has purpose-built washing and drying facilities, which you can use to bathe your dog at a price that is a fraction of what you’d pay if you were to visit a groomer.

Even better, there is the added benefit that you do not have to worry about clogging your bath with dog hair.

 

 

A Simple but Effective Guide to Make Your Dog Stop Biting

Dogs and puppies have a natural tendency to bite and chew. They usually also prefer interacting with objects with their teeth rather than their paws.

While this “natural” behavior can seem cute at the beginning, especially if you have a puppy or the “bites” are still very gentle, it may eventually grow to a point where it becomes a serious problem. And this is precisely why you need to act before things get that worse. You will also be much better off starting early, as the process will be a lot easier and smoother than when biting becomes an almost irrevocable part of your dog’s behavior.

With that said, let’s cut to the chase and take a look at few simple but highly effective ways of making your dog or puppy give up on its biting habit for good.

Associate Biting with Pain

When two dogs play, they tend to mouth each other; but there’s nothing unusual about it. It’s a common part of their playing activity.

However, whenever one of them ends up biting the other, the dog getting bitten would yelp, making the biting dog realize that it has done something wrong. And over time, a dog would probably easily be able to understand that whenever they bite another dog and it yelps, it’s likely because it has been hurt by their bite.

This realization and understanding that your dog may already be having somewhere stored in his memory is something you can use to your advantage here. Sure, it doesn’t know that it needs to think in the

same way while playing with a human, but making your dog learn that certainly wouldn’t turn out to be an extremely difficult task.

Whenever your dog ends up biting you, you should make your hand go limp, while also making a yelping sound. However, you should be careful not to take your hand off his mouth in a sudden manner, as it may make him think that you’re just playing with him and that he’s simply supposed to chase your hand.

If the yelping doesn’t work for you, you can resort to a loud sound that helps you express your “pain.” Be careful not to frighten your dog, though; but if you do, you should take your cries of pain down a notch.

After performing these actions, you should also be ignoring your pet for about half a minute before going back to playing with him. Similarly, you wouldn’t want to repeat this process more than twice in fifteen minutes. But if you feel the need to do so, you should simply be having a time out.

This will help the dog understand that while gentle play can go on for long, rough play will make you stop playing with him far more quickly.

Teaching Appropriate Chewing

Teaching your dog what is okay to chew and what is not can go a long way in making him give up his habit of biting people. To do this, you would need a few good, tempting chewing dog toys to begin with.

Whenever the dog tries to go for your hand or any other part of your body, just dodge his “attack” and throw a chewing toy his way. If he ends up satisfying his thirst for chewing using the toy, praise him and give him a good treat. Make sure the dog knows that he will be rewarded with a treat if he goes with the appropriate chewing option as soon as you give him a chewing toy to engage himself with.

Another way of satisfying your dog’s chewing desires is to play a game such as tug-of-war with him. However, you must be careful not to let the aggression in him come out while playing. In order to use this method effectively, you would want to teach your dog commands such as “leave it” or “let go.”

Have “Distractions” Handy

Dogs tend to have a habit of not only mouthing people, but also other things in their environment. And to prevent your dog from following this typical dog behavior, you should have a few interesting things handy that will grab his attention away from the other things in his environment that he finds very tempting to chew.

Chew toys are obviously a great option, but those “treat” toys that force dogs into doing some serious thinking to get the treat can really keep them engaged as well.

Encouraging Positive Chewing Action

Some dogs develop a habit of biting at people’s feet or ankles. This is something you’re very likely to come across if you own a large, herding dog.

A good way to deal with this is to have a chew toy in your pocket when you’re at the home with your dog. Whenever he comes after your ankles or feet, you need to stop moving completely and wave the chew toy around and make him go for it instead. When he does, you can also reward him with a treat.

Even if you don’t have a chew toy with you when your dog bites you, you can simply stop moving. When the dog finally takes his teeth off your feet, praise him and offer him a treat or toy. This is simply a way to encourage his positive action.

Important Precautions to take:

• Avoid using your fingers or toes while being playful with your dog, as it can encourage him to get into its biting mode and bite them.
• Try to work on building a strong bond between your dog and his human family. This will help you get in a much better position to make him play with you the way you want, rather than not playing with you at all. After all, your goal is to eventually make your dog play in an appropriate manner, and not do away with playing altogether.
• Absolutely stay away from all kinds of direct punishments. Slapping or hitting your dog when he bites you playfully can cause some serious damage to your owner-pet relationship. Your dog may grow afraid of you, which, in turn, may be followed by a bunch of other problems. In addition to that, such punishments may also incite real aggression in your dog, including a tendency to bite harder.